The application of plant dyes in the textile industry has been very limited due to their limited sources, incomplete color space, and narrow color gamut, etc. Therefore, studies of the color properties and color gamut of natural dyes and the corresponding dyeing processes are essential for completing the color space of natural dyes and their application. In this study, water extract from the bark of Phellodendron amurense (P. amurense) was used as a dye. Dyeing properties, color gamut, and color evaluation of dyed cotton fabrics were studied, and optimal dyeing conditions were obtained. The results showed that the optimal dyeing process was pre-mordanting with liquor ratio at 1:50, P. amurense dye concentration at 5.2 g/L, mordant concentration (aluminum potassium sulfate) at 5 g/L, dyeing temperature at 70 °C, dyeing time of 30 min, mordanting time of 15 min, and pH 5. Through the optimization of the dyeing process, a maximum color gamut range was obtained with lightness L* value from 74.33 to 91.23, a* value from −0.89 to 2.96, b* value from 4.62 to 34.08, chroma C* value from 5.49 to 34.09, and hue angle h° value from 57.35° to 91.57°. Colors from light yellow to dark yellow were obtained, among which 12 colors were identified according to the Pantone Matching Systems. The color fastness against soap-washing, rubbing, and sunlight on the dyed cotton fabrics all reached grade 3 level or above, further expanding the applicability of natural dyes.
Natural dyes play an important role in sustainable dyeing processes. However, natural yellow dyes with good performance are rare. Traditional natural yellow dyes have issues, such as a narrow color range and poor light fastness. In this paper, a new natural yellow dye was extracted from a low-cost herb Geranium caespitosum L. (G. caespitosum). In addition, the dye composition was analyzed using UV-visible spectroscopy. The dyeing process of G. caespitosum dye on wool fabrics was optimized using single-factor experiments. Standard fastness tests were conducted to evaluate the sunlight, washing, and rubbing fastness of the dyed fabrics. The color characteristics and color gamut range of the dyed fabrics were evaluated. The obtained colors were compared and assessed with Pantone Matching Systems and Chinese traditional colors. The results showed that phenolic acids and flavonoids were present in the G. caespitosum dye solution as yellow dye compounds. The best dyeing process for wool fabrics was meta-mordanting. The dyed fabrics were bright yellow at 60 °C and golden yellow at 90 °C. All the obtained colors were in the yellow-red range. According to the ISO color fastness standards, wool fabrics dyed with G. caespitosum dye had good color fastness ratings, particularly sunlight fastness. Therefore, G. caespitosum dye is a promising natural yellow dye that can be used for wool fabric dyeing. It has advantages over other known natural yellow dyes and has certain application value.
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