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The potential for laccase (EC 1.10.3.2) to be used within the area of textile coloration, specifically for the generation of decorative surface pattern design, remains relatively unexplored. The current study presents a novel process for the coloration of wool and nylon 6,6 fibres via laccase oxidation of aromatic compounds as an alternative to conventional dyeing methods. Emphasis was placed on producing a diverse colour palette, which was achieved through the investigation of three different aromatic compounds as laccase substrates: 1,4-dihydroxybenzene, 2,7-dihydroxynapthalene and 2,5-diaminobenzenesulphonic acid. Reaction processing parameters such as buffer systems and pH values, laccase and aromatic compound concentrations, and reaction times were investigated, all in the absence of additional chemical auxiliaries. Enzymatically dyed fabrics were tested against commercial standards, resulting in reasonably good colour fastness to wash. To demonstrate the coloration and design potential by laccase catalysation of aromatic compounds, specially constructed fabrics using a combination of undyed wool, nylon and polyester yarns were dyed using the onestep laccase-catalysed coloration process. The use of different fibre types and weave structures enabled simple colour variations to be produced. Shadow, reserve and contrasting effects were achieved with the laccase-catalysed dyeing process developed. Important advantages over conventional processing methods include the use of simpler and milder processing conditions that eliminate additional chemical use and reduce energy consumption. Coloration Technology Society of Dyers and Colourists AB, acetate buffer; CB, citrate buffer; PB, phosphate buffer. Prajapati et al. Laccase-catalysed coloration CLB, hydrochloric acid/potassium chloride buffer; AB, acetate buffer; CB, citrate buffer; PB, phosphate buffer. Prajapati et al. Laccase-catalysed coloration

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An enzyme-based process was investigated to achieve surface patterning of fabrics as an alternative to conventional chemical processes. In the current study, the enzyme protease was employed to selectively modify a wool/polyester blended fabric to impart decorative surface effects. Controlled protease processing of the blended fabric dyed with Lanasol Blue CE enabled the degradation and removal of the dyed wool fibre component from the fabric blend, resulting in novel fading and differential fabric relief due to degradation of wool, revealing the undyed polyester component after enzyme treatment. A 38.5% weight loss was achieved, therefore 85.6% of the wool in the 45/55% wool/polyester blended fabric was removed from the structure. The activity of protease is highly specific, therefore, it caused no damage to the polyester component. The control studies led to the development of surface pattern designs using the enzyme process, achieving effects similar to current processes such as devoré and discharge printing. This novel enzyme process permits the replacement of harsh chemicals used in current surface patterning processes with small doses of biodegradable enzymes.

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This paper considers the potential for digital laser technology to facilitate sustainable innovation in the field of textile design and manufacture, enabling transition towards a circular economy. Using recent design research as a case study, it discusses a newly developed Laser Shibori technique and its significance in relation to circularity. Laser Shibori describes a digital moulding technique for threedimensional surface design and sustainable textile finishing that can be used to design accurate surface architectures for synthetic textiles. Using the photothermal energy of a CO2 laser, the method combines two heat dependent processes: heat setting and textile coloration, resulting in an effect akin to shibori. Unlike the traditional craft practice, Laser Shibori offers precise digital control, repeatability and a unique aesthetic. The study demonstrated the benefit of interdisciplinary research, synthesising design and science to support sustainable material innovation. The synthesis of material science and creative design practice proved essential in developing the laser technique and created a platform for material innovation beyond creativity as discussed through potential functional application ideas and sustainability benefits. The methods described in this paper provide a system to control three-dimensional effects through controlled tension and targeted laser irradiation. The use of laser technology to create threedimensional textile forms presents processing advantages over traditional methods: the laser does not require physical moulds or complicated set up and offers ease of pattern change through digital generation of designs. The laser process negates requirement for additional materials, offering reversible surface design effects to facilitate ease of recovery at end of primary use, thus complimenting a circular textile lifecycle in three dimensions: through efficiency, agility and recovery.

The environmental impact of textile dyeing and finishing is of paramount concern in the textile industry. Enzyme and laser processing technologies present attractive alternatives to conventional textile colouration and surface patterning methods. Both technologies have the capability to reduce the impact of manufacturing on the environment by reducing the consumption of chemicals, water and energy, and the subsequent generation of waste. Two emerging textile processing technologies, laser processing and enzyme biotechnology were investigated as a means of applying surface design and colour to materials with a focus on improving the efficiency and sustainability of existing textile design and finishing methods.Through industrial stakeholder engagement and interdisciplinary research involving textile design, fibre and dye chemistry, biotechnology and optical engineering, this design-led project brought together design practice and science with a commercial focus. Each technology was used to modify targeted material properties, finding and exploiting opportunities for the design and finishing of textiles. The work resulted in a catalogue of new colouration and design techniques for both technologies making it possible to achieve: selective surface pattern by differential dyeing, combined three-dimensional and colour finishing and novel colouration of textile materials.The chapter provides a literature review mapping the use of enzyme biotechnology and laser processing technology within textile design and manufacturing to date, identifying current and future opportunities to reduce environmental impacts through their application. The methodological approach, which was interdisciplinary and design-led, will be introduced and the specific design and scientific methods applied will be detailed. Each of the techniques developed will be discussed and examples of the design effects achieved will be presented. And, an indication of the reductions in chemical effluent efficiencies in resource use, and design flexibility in comparison with traditional textile colouration and surface patterning techniques will be given.

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