Background: Several studies evidenced significant increase of cortisol is the consequence of UV or emotional stress and leads to various deleterious effects in the skin. Aim:The well-aging, a new concept of lifestyle, procures an alternative to the antiaging strategy. We demonstrated that Tephrosia purpurea extract is able to stimulate well-being hormones while reducing cortisol release. Furthermore, we hypothesized that the extract could positively influence the global skin homeostasis. Method:We evaluated the impact of the extract on cortisol, β-endorphin, and dopamine, released by normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). A gene expression study was realized on NHEKs and NHDFs. The protein over-expression of HMOX1 and NQO1 was evidenced at cellular and tissue level. Finally, we conducted a clinical study on 21 women living in a polluted environment in order to observe the impact of the active on global skin improvement. Results:The extract is able to reduce significantly the cortisol release while inducing the production of β-endorphin and dopamine. The gene expression study revealed that Tephrosia purpurea extract up-regulated the genes involved in antioxidant response and skin renewal. Moreover, the induction of HMOX and NQO1 expression was confirmed on NHDFs, NHEKs and in RHE. We clinically demonstrated that the extract improved significantly the skin by reducing dark circles, represented by an improvement of L*, a*, and ITA parameters. Conclusion:Tephrosia purpurea extract has beneficial effects on skin homeostasis through control of the well-being state and antioxidant defenses leading to an improvement of dark circles, a clinical features particularly impacted by emotional and environmental stress.

Background and Aims Dark spots, brown spots, or hyperpigmented spots (HPS) are oval or irregular brown areas of skin. Their emergence is associated with dysregulation of the immune system, and may also be caused by a deficiency in stromal cell‐derived factor‐1, leading to perturbed melanogenesis and accumulation of melanosomes within neighboring keratinocytes. The skin microbiota (living microorganisms present on the surface of the skin) is known to play essential roles in maintaining skin homeostasis and in regulating the immune system. Here, we investigated whether the microbiota could play a role in the emergence of HPS. Methods The clinical study involved 38 European women, selected from among 74 volunteers. Participants were divided into two groups depending on the spot areas measured on their faces. The study was designed to avoid conflicting factors: both groups presented similar skin pH, hydration, transepidermal water loss, and sebum levels. The two cohorts were also age‐matched, with a mean of 29‐years‐old for both. Results Alpha‐diversity of the microbiota was similar for the two groups. On skins with more HPS, seven bacterial genera were identified in significantly higher proportions and included opportunistic pathogens and inflammatory bacteria. Six bacterial genera, including bacteria showing antioxidant and anti‐UV properties, were identified in significantly higher proportions on less spotted skins. Cross‐domain association networks revealed distinct co‐occurrences of genera between the two groups, suggesting nonidentical community structures and exchanges, depending on the HPS status. Conclusion Our results reveal specific microbiota composition and networks on skins based on HPS status. Changes could alter communication with the immune system, leading to the emergence of dark spots. As an essential part of the overall skin ecosystem, and through its interaction with the skin matrix, the skin microbiota and its maintenance could be considered a new target for skincare applications.

One of the most visible signs of hair ageing is greying of the hair, also known as canities. This hair disorder is mainly caused by oxidative stress. In preliminary work, we designed various models mimicking the impact of oxidative stress on hair pigmentation, showing an accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) production and a decrease in the presence of melanocytes and melanoblasts, resulting in a decrease in hair pigmentation. A proteomic study on skin scalp explants was performed to identify the dysregulated biological pathways related to canities. We developed a smart active ingredient which has been tested on these biological pathways. We demonstrated that these negative effects were rectified in the presence of the ingredient, showing a reduction of ROS, protection of melanocyte reservoirs and reactivation of hair pigmentation. Finally, a clinical study was carried out on a panel of 44 male volunteers with grey hair. After 4 months, we evidenced a reduction in the proportion of grey hair and in the number of grey hairs/cm2 relative to Day 0. In conclusion, we clearly evidenced that oxidative stress is a key factor in triggering a cascade of events leading to a loss of hair pigmentation. We developed this active ingredient which is capable of restoring all the disrupted mechanisms and of providing hair repigmentation within only 4 months.

(1) Background: Preclinical studies report that the ethanolic fraction from Mangifera indica leaves is a potential anti-acne agent. Nevertheless, the biological activity of Mangifera indica leaves has scarcely been investigated, and additional data are needed, especially in a clinical setting, for establishing the actual effectiveness of Mangifera indica extract as an active component of anti-acne therapy. (2) Methods: The evaluation of the biological activity of Mangifera indica extract was carried out through different experimental phases, which comprised in silico, in vitro, ex vivo and clinical evaluations. (3) Results: In silico and in vitro studies allowed us to identify the phytomarkers carrying the activity of seboregulation and acne management. Results showed that Mangifera indica extract reduced lipid production by 40% in sebocytes, and an improvement of the sebum quality was reported after the treatment in analyses performed on sebaceous glands from skin explants. The evaluation of the sebum quantity and quality using triglyceride/free fatty acid analysis conducted on Caucasian volunteers evidenced a strong improvement and a reduction of porphyrins expression. The C. acnes lipase activity from a severe acne phylotype was evaluated in the presence of Mangifera indica, and a reduction by 29% was reported. In addition, the analysis of the skin microbiota documented that Mangifera indica protected the microbiota equilibrium while the placebo induced dysbiosis. (4) Conclusions: Our results showed that Mangifera indica is microbiota friendly and efficient against lipase activity of C. acnes and supports a role for Mangifera indica in the therapeutic strategy for prevention and treatment of acne.

The skin is composed of three layers including the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis, each of which play a specific role in the skin. 1 Interestingly, the dermis provides all the biomechanical properties of the skin such as elasticity and firmness, and imparts resilience through its specific composition and organization. It is a highly vascularized tissue, mainly composed of fibroblasts capable of synthesizing structural proteins such as collagens, 2 which are the most abundant. The two main types of collagen synthesized in the dermis are type I and type III collagen, 3 both of which are composed of three polypeptide chains organized in a triple helix which is involved in mechanic resistance of tissues against traction. 4 In the upper dermis, also known as the papillary dermis, collagen fibers are arranged perpendicularly to the epidermis, intertwined with thinner vertical elastic fibers named oxytalan and elaunin fibers having few elastic properties due to a low amount of elastin. 5 In contrast, collagen fibers from the underlying reticular dermis are larger and arranged