A polar head and an apolar tail chemically characterize surfactants, they show different properties and are categorized by different factors such as head charge and molecular weight. They work by reducing the surface tension between oil and water phases to facilitate the formation of one homogeneous mixture. In this respect, they represent unavoidable ingredients, their main application is in the production of detergents, one of if not the most important categories of cosmetics. Their role is very important, it should be remembered that it was precisely soaps and hygiene that defeated the main infectious diseases at the beginning of the last century. Due to their positive environmental impact, the potential uses of microbial sourced surfactants are actively investigated. These compounds are produced with different mechanisms by microorganisms in the aims to defend themselves from external threats, to improve the mobility in the environment, etc. In the cosmetic field, biosurfactants, restricted in the present work to those described above, can carry high advantages, in comparison to traditional surfactants, especially in the field of sustainable and safer approaches. Besiede this, costs still remain an obsatcle to their diffusion; in this regard, exploration of possible multifunctional actions could help to contain application costs. To highlight their features and possible multifunctional role, on the light of specific biological profiles yet underestimated, we have approached the present review work.
Attention to environmental issues has become increasingly important in recent years and also massively affects the cosmetics sector. In this context, sunscreens are questioned due to the proven or believed ecotoxicity of organic ultraviolet (UV) filters. This has pushed developers increasingly towards the use of inorganic filters, which can prove difficult to spread with low compliance. We faced the problem by proposing a rational approach based on the evaluation of the morphology of the inorganic material, as the real dimension does not often correspond to the characteristics declared by the producers because the material itself tends to aggregate. A combination of a specially selected inorganic filter is required to formulate Cosmetic Products with a Natural and Sustainable Connotation (CPCNS) standards.
There are only a limited number of molecules in a cosmetic formulation, which can passively cross the stratum corneum and be absorbed into the skin layers. However, some actives should never cross the skin in large concentrations due to their potential for side effects, for example, sunscreens. Artificial intelligence is gaining an increasing role as a predictive tool, and in this regard, we selected the Formulating for Efficacy® Software to forecast the changes in bioavailability of selected topical cosmetic compounds. Using the Franz diffusion cell methodology, various oils were selected as those with low release capability, and these were compared to those suggested by the software in Benzophenone-3-containing formulations. The software was able to predict the lipophilic phases, which, if utilized in the emulsion, were stable and sometimes even more pleasant in appearance and consistency than the reference emulsions prepared by the formulator. To date, however, Formulating for Efficacy® Software still has limitations as far as predicting the hydrophilic phase, as well as not being able to choose the emulsifier or the preservative system.
Cosmetic pleasantness of products containing inorganic UV filters depends on an unwanted whitening effect which is inversely correlated to their size. To overcome this effect, diameter has been reduced to nanosized but thus increasing the surface area and biological reactivity and carrying questions about the safety of humans and environment. Following a “safe and sustainability by design” approach, we designed a new class of optimized sunscreen UV filters by chemical functionalization of ZnO and TiO2 with Oxisol. If compared with the simple physical mixture, the new coated filters show different properties and benefits: a higher SPF (ISO 24443:2012), a better cytotoxic profile (MTT and NRU assay), a radical scavenging action (PCL assay) and an improved safety profile with a strong reduction of photocatalytic activity (Acid blue 9 test). In conclusion, our Safe by Design (acronym SbD) approach presents a new generation of UV filters bonded with booster molecules (by means of synergistic antioxidant effects) as the best compromise in the conscientious UV protection.
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