[structure: see text] A novel seco-dibenzopyrrocoline alkaloid, named oubatchensine 6, and five phenanthroindolizidines (1-5) were isolated from Cryptocarya oubatchensis, and their structures were elucidated. Displacement centrifugal partition chromatography was used to purify compounds 1 and 6. Structure determination of the latter was carried out by mass spectrometry, NMR spectroscopy, quantum chemistry, and computer-assisted structure determination. Cytotoxic activity against KB cells was then investigated.
Objective
The objective is to develop a natural cosmetic ingredient from Eryngium maritimum regarding the high interest of consumer in these ingredients for cosmetic use.
Methods
Five eco‐friendly techniques of extraction were applied to Eryngium maritimum aerial parts among conventional reflux extraction (with green solvent) and alternative techniques (supercritical fluid extraction (SFE), microwave‐assisted extraction (MAE), ultrasound‐assisted extraction (UAE) and ultrasound combined with microwave extraction (UAE + MAE)). Several criteria were evaluated to allow the optimal choice for an industrialized ingredient: yield of extraction, chemical composition and biological activities such as antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti‐collagenase and anti‐tyrosinase activities. The extracts were analysed by liquid chromatography mass spectrometry (LC‐HRMS), and the hierarchical Pearson classification (HCA) allowed to highlight the group of metabolites preferably extracted depending on the technique of extraction used.
Results
The biological results highlight that SFE and 80% ethanol reflux extracts have the best responses to biological activities such as antimicrobial, depigmenting and antioxidant activities, followed by water reflux extraction. Their activities might be due to the presence of different groups of metabolites favourably extracted by these techniques.
Conclusion
Among these extractions, water reflux extraction provided the optimal results considering the compromise between extraction yield and biological activities for the development of a cosmetic ingredient.
A comparison between the classical gas chromatography (GC) technique with supercritical fluid chromatography (SFC) technology was performed using an essential oil of Citrus limon (lemon) as a model, considering its wide use in the cosmetic world. For the qualitative part, the signal annotation was achieved by mass spectrometry using either an electron ionization (EI) or an atmospheric pressure photoionization (APPI) source. For the quantitative part, GC was hyphenated to a flame ionization detector (GC-FID) and SFC to an ultraviolet detector (SFC-UV). The assay of the major component of citrus oil, i.e., limonene, was carried out by SFC-UV. The similar results obtained between GC-FID and SFC-UV allows SFC-UV to be considered as an alternative to GC-FID for Citrus oil characterization. Then, analyses of an essential oil collection from Citrus fruits were achieved to confirm the potential use of SFC-UV for oil classification in the context of quality control of raw materials in cosmetics.
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