Resonant oscillation of sea surface elevation in coral reef zones is asserted to be excited by the change of radiation stress and breaking point due to the wave groups of incident short period waves. Numerical and laboratory experiments confirmed the generation of long period oscillation and its nonlinear deformation into the" bore-like or tsunami-like surf beat" with a steep forward face. A resonance diagram is prepared for a design criterion.
A new judging method of free water surface of MPS is being proposed in this study. This method decreases the generation of the surface particle inside the fluid and improves the pressure distribution. The authors investigate a relation between the number of free surface particle and the hydrostatic pressure in the calculation of static water. The stable pressure is obtained in this new method compared to the original method. In the new method, high accuracy and computational stability are also obtained when applied to the calculation of the collapse of a water column. The study suggests that the new method is useful as the judging method of free water surface.
A new numerical scheme of a "non-reflection and free-transmission" boundary for longwave equations proposed by Hino (1987) has been tested for a variety of cases. The test results verify the effectiveness of the method for (a) a single progressive wave train on a horizontal bottom, (b) two wave trains each propagating in opposite directions on a horizontal bottom, (c) a single wave train propagating on a sloping bottom with friction, (d) oscillatory flood waves in an open channel flow, (e) two-dimensional waves travelling obliquely to open boundaries and (f) water surface oscillation in a harbor by waves incident through an opening.
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