The outer most layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, consists of corneocytes which are coated by a cornified envelope and embedded in a lipid matrix of ordered lamellar structure. It is responsible for the skin barrier function. Ceramides (CERs) are the backbone of the intercellular lipid membranes. Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis and aged skin are characterized by dysfunctional skin barrier and dryness which are associated with reduced levels of CERs. Previously, the effectiveness of supplementation of synthetic and animal-based CERs in replenishing the depleted natural skin CERs and restoring the skin barrier function have been investigated. Recently, however, the barrier function improving effect of plant-derived CERs has attracted much attention. Phyto-derived CERs (phytoCERs) are preferable due to their assumed higher safety as they are mostly isolated from dietary sources. The beneficial effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements for skin hydration and skin barrier reinforcement have been indicated in several studies involving animal models as well as human subjects. Ingestible dietary supplements containing phytoCERs are also widely available on the market. Nonetheless, little effort has been made to investigate the potential cosmetic applications of topically administered phytoCERs. Therefore, summarizing the foregoing investigations and identifying the gap in the scientific data on plant-derived CERs intended for skin-health benefits are of paramount importance. In this review, an attempt is made to synthesize the information available in the literature regarding the effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements on skin hydration and barrier function with the underlying mechanisms.

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Ceramides (CERs) are the backbone of the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of the skin. Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and aged skin are characterized by dysfunctional skin barrier and dryness which are associated with reduced levels of CERs. Replenishing the depleted epidermal CERs with exogenous CERs has been shown to have beneficial effects in improving the skin barrier and hydration. The exogenous CERs such as phyto-derived CERs (PhytoCERs) can be delivered deep into the SC using novel topical formulations. This, however, requires investigating the rate and extent of skin permeation of CERs. In this study, an LC/APCI-MS method to detect and quantify PhytoCERs in different layers of the skin has been developed and validated. The method was used to investigate the skin permeation of PhytoCERs using Franz diffusion cells after applying an amphiphilic cream containing PhytoCERs to the surface of ex vivo human skin. As plant-specific CERs are not commercially available, well-characterized CERs isolated from oat (Avena abyssinica) were used as reference standards for the development and validation of the method. The method was linear over the range of 30-1050 ng/mL and sensitive with limit of detection and quantification of 10 and 30 ng/mL, respectively. The method was also selective, accurate, and precise with minimal matrix effect (with mean matrix factor around 100%). Even if more than 85% of oat CERs in the cream remained in the cream after the incubation periods of 30, 100, and 300 min, it was possible to quantify the small quantities of oat CERs distributed across the SC, epidermis, and dermis of the skin indicating the method's sensitivity. Therefore, the method can be used to investigate the skin permeation of oat CERs from the various pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products without any interference from the skin constituents such as the epidermal lipids. Graphical abstract ᅟ.

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