The eyelash is structurally very close to curly hair but some biological processes related to follicle cycle and pigmentation differ markedly.

Examination of very long hair (length > 2.4 m) using a large range of evaluation methods including physical, chemical, biochemical and microscopic techniques has enabled to attain a detailed understanding of natural ageing of human hair keratin fibres. Scrutinizing hair that has undergone little or no oxidative aggression--because of the absence of action of chemical agents such as bleaching or dyeing--from the root to the tip shows the deterioration process, which gradually takes place from the outside to the inside of the hair shaft: first, a progressive abrasion of the cuticle, whilst the cortex structure remains unaltered, is evidenced along a length of roughly 1 m onwards together with constant shine, hydrophobicity and friction characteristics. Further along the fibre, a significant damage to cuticle scales occurs, which correlates well with ceramides and 18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid (18-MEA) decline, and progressive decrease in keratin-associated protein content. Most physical descriptors of mechanical and optical properties decay significantly. This detailed description of natural ageing of human hair fibres by a fine analysis of hair components and physical parameters in relationship with cosmetic characteristics provides a time-dependent 'damage scale' of human hair, which may help in designing new targeted hair care formulations.

The family of transglutaminases (TGase) is known to be involved in terminal differentiation processes in the epidermis. These enzymes contribute also to the physical resistance and the preservation of the hair follicle structure. Our particular interest in hair fiber keratinization led us to focus on the TGase 3, exclusively expressed in the hair shaft. To date its function is still to be elucidated, thus we have developed a multidisciplinary approach in order to define the localization, activity, and substrates of TGase 3. The hair fiber is characterized by the expression of specific proteins essentially consisting of keratin intermediate filaments and keratin-associated proteins (KAPs), which are essential for the formation of a rigid hair shaft through their extensive disulfide cross-links. Gel electrophoresis combined with mass spectrometry experiments revealed an unexpected protein migration pattern, suggesting the existence of covalent interactions other than disulfide bonds. Western blot and amino-acid analysis revealed the presence of gamma-glutamyl-epsilon-lysine isopeptide linkages that could constitute this second covalent network. Our hypothesis is that TGase 3-driven specific isopeptide bonds between intermediate filaments and KAPs participate to the progressive scaffolding of the hair shaft.