The research focuses on the influence of elastane (Spandex) incorporation in the weft direction of cotton fabrics, and the structural properties (fabric density, type of weave) on the thermal and water vapor resistance level. For that purpose, woven fabrics, in plain and twill weave with two different densities (17 and 20 yarns/cm) in the weft direction, were made from 100% cotton (conventional) and from a mixture cotton/elastane in the ratio 93.8%/6.2% (elastic fabric) intended for men’s shirts for the summer season. Thermal and water vapor resistance were determined with two novel methods, which were compared with the well-known Permetest method. The thermal resistance was calculated according to the thermal conductivity method which was established by the faculty research laboratory and with the Permetest, while the water vapor resistance was measured with the water cup method (developed by Professor D. Jaksic) and with the Permetest. The research results indicate that cotton fabrics in twill weave with elastane in the weft direction have higher thermal and water vapor resistance compared to conventional cotton fabrics. The reason lies in the higher yarn density of fabrics with elastane in the weft direction in twill weave (from 24 to 29–31 yarns/cm in the warp direction) compared to the plain weave (from 24 to 28 yarns/cm in the warp direction).
This research is focused on the influence of constructional parameters such as the type of weave and density on deformability of pure cotton and cotton/elastane fabrics. In the research, two basic weaves were used: the plain and twill weave without (pure cotton) and with 6.2 percent of elastane in the weft direction. The density of the warp yarns was before bleaching 22yarns/cm and after end treatment (bleaching) from 24 to 31 yarns/cm. The chosen densities in the weft direction were 17 and 20 yarns/cm. The fabrics were cyclically loaded with maximum load 17.66 N. The non-recoverable deformation was measured after 30 seconds of relaxation after the fourth cycle of loading, according to ASTM D 3107–75. The research results show that elastane incorporation significantly decreased the non-recoverable deformation after loading. In the case of the twill weave, the decrease of non-recoverable deformation was from around 20% – twill without elastane to around 5% – twill with elastane – fabrics 7B and 8B. The non-recoverable deformation level decrease with fabrics in plain weave was also significant (from around 24% – plain without elastane to around 12% – plain with elastane). From the results of non-recoverable deformation, it is clearly seen that the chosen type of weave, plain and twill, significantly influenced the non-recoverable deformation level. The increase of density in the weft direction from 17 yarns/cm to 20 yarns/cm for pure cotton and cotton/elastane fabrics insignificantly influenced the non-recoverable deformation level. This means that the density increase of 3 yarns/cm is too low to significantly influence the deformability of pure cotton and cotton/elastane fabrics.
The comfort characteristics of fabrics (especially thermal insulation and permeability properties) are closely associated with the changes in their structural parameters. The reaction of a stretchable fabric, either after the finishing process or after a mechanical deformation, is higher than the reaction of conventional fabrics. The reaction after the finishing process is usually expressed in terms of density, thickness or mass increase, and in dimensional changes. The structural changes influence thermal insulation and water vapor permeability properties, which are the most important properties associated with the comfort of textiles. This paper focuses on the impact of the pre-finishing process on the comfort characteristics of pure cotton fabrics and of cotton fabrics with elastane in the weft direction in plain and twill weave. The results indicate that after the pre-finishing process (scouring/bleaching) for the analyzed fabrics, water vapor resistance and thermal resistance decrease. These decreases occur due to the structural changes inside the fabrics (warp yarn density and mass increase, whereas thickness decreases).
Nonwovens represent a part of technical textiles that are used for clothing (“cloth tech”). Nonwovens are also used in the footwear industry mainly for functional purposes, where the aesthetic properties are not of great importance. They are mainly used for support and reinforcement of footwear. All three groups of textiles are used for footwear, i.e. woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and nonwovens that are produced directly from fibres, yarns or threads mainly from chemical fibres and in a small proportion from natural fibres. Footwear textiles need to have good mechanical properties (at compressive loading), abrasion resistance, permeability properties and heat resistance. These properties are in close connection with the nonwoven structure or composite materials. The basic intention of the presented research was to analyse the influence of the technology process on nonwovens for footwear responsiveness. Analysed footwear nonwovens in the presented research were on one side coated but on the other side consisted of a two-layer laminate. For this purpose, two different technological processes were used (coating and lamination). The results of the presented research showed that laminated samples express higher elastic recovery at compressive loading than coated samples. The treatment does not have an important influence on elastic recovery at compressive loading. Laminated samples express higher water permeability and lower absorption of water than coated samples, even after 24 hours of treatment in distilled water and compressive loading. The treatment of specimens in distilled water for 24 hours and compressive load of 789.6 N does not have an important influence on elastic recovery at compressive loading, water vapour permeability, air permeability and absorption of analysed samples. Air permeability could not be measured on coated samples.
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