The purpose of this study was to examine the changing fashion figure ideal as represented in fashion illustration during the twentieth century. The ideal body forms and other appearance traits associated with fashionable women have varied notably during this time span. These changes have been documented and analyzed extensively in current literature. The related ideals presented for instruction in fashion illustration textbooks during the century graphically depict the evolution. Ten basic fashion figure diagrams appearing in textbooks published between 1918 and 1985 were analyzed and compared. Several line drawings derived from typical fashion editorial and advertising art supplemented these. The findings support the hypothesis that the changing fashion figure ideal in fashion illustration is influenced by and is a reflection of two major factors: (a) the "spirit of the times" and (b) the characteristics of each era's fashionable silhouette and apparel.
The purpose of this study was to gather information and opinions from major contemporary fashion illustrators in order to enrich classroom teaching of the subject and to compensate for the void in literature about post-1960 artists and their work. Individualized letters were sent to artists, most of whom were producing advertising or editorial art for New York stores, designers, firms, or publications. The artists were asked to respond to two pages of open-ended questions about their careers and other fashion illustration topics. Fifty-five artists replied in written form regarding their educational and professional experiences, suggestions for content and teaching approach in a beginning fashion illustration course, sources of poses, preferred artists' tools and media, and work setting. They also assessed the dominance of fashion photography over illustration in editorial portions of fashion magazines such as Vogue and Harper's Bazaar and cited current trends and influences. in fashion art. The quantity and time span of the artists' responses produced a chronological overview of fashion illustration trends from the late 1960s to the present, together with speculations about future use and status of fashion illustration.
Eighteen Thuja species and cultivars were evaluated for ovipositional preference for, and relative susceptibility to, feeding by the arborvitae leafminer. Thuja occidentalis ‘Hetz Midget’ and ‘Hoopesii’ were least susceptible; T. occidentalis cultivars 'Gracilis', 'Holmstrup', 'Spiralis', and 'Techny', and T. plicata 'Fastigiata', were intermediate in susceptibility; Thuja occidentalis cultivars 'Aurea', 'Douglasii Aurea', 'Globosa', 'Hetz Wintergreen', 'Smaragd', 'Umbraculifera', 'Wagneri', 'Wareana,' and 'Waxen', and species T. occidentalis, and T. plicata, were highly susceptible to ALM feeding. Short trees suffered significantly less feeding compared to tall trees, with number of infested branch tips (IBTs) increasing with tree height. Short trees (<4 m) had significantly more feeding damage in the upper canopy zone and tall trees (>4 m) had greater damage in the lower and middle zones. Trees with very dense canopies had significantly fewer IBTs compared to trees with sparse, medium, and dense canopies, with IBTs decreasing as canopy density increased. There were no significant associations between number of IBTs and canopy aspect. Plant height, growth habit, and canopy zone and density appear to influence infestation levels and possibly ovipositional preference. These findings suggest some important ALM management guidelines for the nursery and landscape industries.
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