In order to model the evolution of a solitary wave near an obstacle or over an uneven bottom, the long-wave equations including curvature effects are introduced to describe the deformation and fission of a barotropic solitary wave passing over a shelf or an obstacle. The numerical results obtained from these equations are shown to be in good agreement with an analytical model derived by Germain (1984) in the framework of a generalized shallow-water theory, and with experimental results collected in a large channel equipped with a wave generator. Given the initial conditions, i.e. amplitude of the incident solitary wave, water depth in the deep region, and height of the shelf or the barrier, it is possible to predict the amplitude and number of the transmitted solitary waves as well as the amplitude of the reflected wave, and to describe the shape of the free surface at any time.

In Part 1 a study is made of the internal solitary wave on the pycnocline of a continuously stratified fluid. A Korteweg–de Vries (KdV) equation for the ‘interfacial’ displacement is developed following Benney's method for long nonlinear waves. Experiments were conducted in a long wave tank with the pycnocline at several different depths below the free surface, while keeping the total depth approximately constant. A step-like pool of light water, trapped behind a sliding gate, served as the initial disturbance condition. The number of solitons generated was verified to satisfy the prediction of inverse-scattering theory. The fully developed soliton was found to satisfy the KdV theory for all ratios of upper-layer thickness to total depth.In Part 2 of this study we investigate experimentally the evolution and breaking of an internal solitary wave as it shoals on a sloping bottom connecting the deeper region where the waves were generated to a shallower shelf region. It is found through quantitative measurements that the onset of wave-breaking was governed by shear instability, which was initiated when the local gradient Richardson number became less than ¼. The internal solitary wave of depression was found to steepen at the back of the wave before breaking, in contrast with waves of elevation. Two slopes were used, with ratios 1:16 and 1:9, and the fluid was a Boussinesq fluid with weak stratification using brine solutions.

We consider the evolution of weakly nonlinear dispersive long waves in a rotating channel. The governing equations are derived and approximate solutions obtained for the initial data corresponding to a Kelvin wave. In consequence of the small nonlinear speed correction it is shown that weakly nonlinear Kelvin waves are unstable to a direct nonlinear resonance with the linear Poincaré modes of the channel. Numerical solutions of the governing equations are computed and found to give good agreement with the approximate analytical solutions. It is shown that the curvature of the wavefront and the decay of the leading wave amplitude along the channel are attributable to the Poincaré waves generated by the resonance. These results appear to give a qualitative explanation of the experimental results of Maxworthy (1983), and Renouard, Chabert d'Hières & Zhang (1987).