Tyrosinase is a copper-dependent enzyme which converts l- tyrosine to dopaquinone and is involved in different biological processes such as melanogenesis and skin hyperpigmentation. The purpose of this study was to investigate naturally occurring aurones (Z-benzylidenebenzofuran-3(2H)-one) and analogues as human tyrosinase inhibitors. Several aurones bearing hydroxyl groups on A-ring and different substituents on B-ring were synthesized and evaluated as inhibitors of human melanocyte-tyrosinase by an assay which measures tyrosinase-catalyzed l-Dopa oxidation. We found that unsubstituted aurones were weak inhibitors; however, derivatives with two or three hydroxyl groups preferably at 4,6 and 4' positions are able to induce significant tyrosinase inhibition. The most potent aurone was found to be the naturally occurring 4,6,4'-trihydroxyaurone which induces 75% inhibition at 0.1 mM concentration and is highly effective when compared to kojic acid, one of the best tyrosinase inhibitors known so far (the latter is completely inactive at such concentrations). Active aurones are devoid of toxic effects as shown by in vivo studies.

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In targeting molecules, destinated for treatment of skin ageing, we synthesized esters of hesperitin (4'-methoxy-5,7,3'-trihydroxyflavanone). Esterification with lauric acid was used with the aim to overcome the flavonoid instability and to improve the therapeutic usefulness. Stability, free radical scavenging activity and anti-elastase potency of the prepared compounds were studied and compared to those of hesperitin (natural compound). Compounds obtained are more stable than hesperitin and display similar or higher antielastolytic and free radical scavenging activities.

In the skin, heparin, heparan sulphate and heparan sulphate proteoglycans control the storage and release of growth factors and protect them from early degradation. We developed a cosmetic active ingredient containing Hibiscus Abelmoschus seed extract (trade name Linefactor) that can maintain the FGF-2 content in the skin by mimicking the protective effect of heparan sulphate proteoglycans. By preventing the natural degradation of FGF-2, Hibiscus Abelmoschus seed extract maintains the bioavailability of this growth factor for its target cells, i.e. skin fibroblasts. Our in vitro evaluations showed that this ingredient exhibited heparan sulphate-like properties and dose-dependently protected FGF-2 from thermal degradation. We could also show that, in turn, the protected FGF-2 could stimulate the synthesis of sulphated GAGs, the natural protective molecules for FGF-2, thus providing a double protection. Finally, the in vitro results were confirmed in vivo thanks to a clinical study in which skin biomechanical properties and reduction in wrinkles were assessed.