Bathymetry is a major factor in determining nearshore and surf zone wave transformation and currents, yet is often poorly known. This can lead to inaccuracy in numerical model predictions. Here bathymetry is estimated as an uncertain parameter in a data assimilation system, using the ensemble Kalman filter (EnKF). The system is tested by assimilating several remote sensing data products, which were collected in September 2010 as part of a field experiment at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, NC. The results show that by assimilating remote sensing data alone, nearshore bathymetry can be estimated with good accuracy, and nearshore forecasts (e.g., the prediction of a rip current) can be improved. This suggests an application where a nearshore forecasting model could be implemented using only remote sensing data, without the explicit need for in situ data collection.

New remote sensing observations that demonstrate the presence of rip current plumes in X-band radar images are presented. The observations collected on the Outer Banks (Duck, North Carolina) show a regular sequence of low-tide, low-energy, morphologically driven rip currents over a 10-day period. The remote sensing data were corroborated by in situ current measurements that showed depth-averaged rip current velocities were 20e40 cm=s whereas significant wave heights were H s 5 0:5e1 m. Somewhat surprisingly, these low-energy rips have a surface signature that sometimes extends several surf zone widths from shore and persists for periods of several hours, which is in contrast with recent rip current observations obtained with Lagrangian drifters. These remote sensing observations provide a more synoptic picture of the rip current flow field and allow the identification of several rip events that were not captured by the in situ sensors and times of alongshore deflection of the rip flow outside the surf zone. These data also contain a rip outbreak event where four separate rips were imaged over a 1-km stretch of coast. For potential comparisons of the rip current signature across other radar platforms, an example of a simply calibrated radar image is also given. Finally, in situ observations of the vertical structure of the rip current flow are given, and a threshold offshore wind stress (.0:02 m=s 2) is found to preclude the rip current imaging.

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Flows in and out of rivers and estuaries often generate dynamic frontal features due to localized sharp gradients in the currents, density, or bathymetry. Fronts often coincide with a narrow region of strong flow convergence, resulting in significant downwelling velocities and an increased surface roughness that make the fronts visible in remote sensing images. Within these energetic frontal zones and the shear layer at the density interface, shear instabilities are also common (Geyer et al., 2010;Horner-Devine et al., 2015;Smyth et al., 2001). These flow structures can enhance mixing and entrain bubbles and suspended particulate matter, affecting the lifecycle of the plume, acoustic sensor performance, and underwater vehicle operation.Remote sensing can be effective at identifying and tracking density fronts and frequently shows the existence of along-front spatial structure (

Observations and analyses of two tidally recurring, oblique, internal hydraulic jumps at a stratified estuary mouth (Columbia River, Oregon/Washington) are presented. These hydraulic features have not previously been studied due to the challenges of both horizontally resolving the sharp gradients and temporally resolving their evolution in numerical models and traditional observation platforms. The jumps, both of which recurred during ebb, formed adjacent to two engineered lateral channel constrictions and were identified in marine radar image time series. Jump occurrence was corroborated by (i) a collocated sharp gradient in the surface currents measured via airborne along-track interferometric synthetic aperture radar and (ii) the transition from supercritical to subcritical flow in the cross-jump direction via shipborne velocity and density measurements. Using a two-layer approximation, observed jump angles at both lateral constrictions are shown to lie within the theoretical bounds given by the critical internal long-wave (Froude) angle and the arrested maximum-amplitude internal bore angle, respectively. Also, intratidal and intertidal variability of the jump angles are shown to be consistent with that expected from the two-layer model, applied to varying stratification and current speed over a range of tidal and river discharge conditions. Intratidal variability of the upchannel jump angle is similar under all observed conditions, whereas the downchannel jump angle shows an additional association with stratification and ebb velocity during the low discharge periods. The observations additionally indicate that the upchannel jump achieves a stable position that is collocated with a similarly oblique bathymetric slope.