This paper describes detailed measurements and analysis of the time-varying distribution of void fractions in three different breaking waves under laboratory conditions. The measurements were made with highly sensitive optical fibre phase detection probes and document the rapid spatial and temporal evolutions of both the bubble plume generated beneath the free surface and the splashes above. Integral properties of the measured void fraction fields reveal a remarkable degree of similarity between characteristics of the two-phase flow in different breaker types as they evolve with time. Depending on the breaker type, the energy expended in entraining air and generating splash accounts for a minimum of between 6.5 and 14% of the total energy dissipated during wave breaking.
The spatial and temporal variation of energy dissipation rates in breaking waves controls the mean circulation of the surf zone. As this circulation plays an important role in the morphodynamics of beaches, it is vital to develop better understanding of the energy dissipation processes in breaking and broken waves. In this paper, we present the first direct field measurements of roller geometry extracted from a LiDAR data set of broken waves to obtain new insights into wave energy dissipation in the inner surf zone. We use a roller model to show that most existing roller area formulations in the literature lead to considerable overestimation of the wave energy dissipation, which is found to be close to, but smaller than, the energy dissipation in a hydraulic jump of the same height. The role of the roller density is also investigated, and we propose that it should be incorporated into modified roller area formulations until better knowledge of the roller area and its link with the mean roller density is acquired. Finally, using previously published results from deepwater wave breaking studies, we propose a scaling law for energy dissipation in the inner surf zone, which achieves satisfactory results at both the time‐averaged and wave‐by‐wave scales.
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