The effect of relative crest submergence on wave breaking over submerged slopes

Blenkinsopp, Christopher; Chaplin, J.R.

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.03.004

Cited by 48 publications

(94 citation statements)

References 11 publications

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“…The depth at which breaking occurs is commonly described in terms of the breaker ratio γ b , sometimes also known as the breaker depth index (e.g., Blenkinsopp and Chaplin, 2008), which is the ratio of the wave height at breaking (H b ) to the water depth at which breaking occurs (h b ).…”

Section: Hurricane Wave Breakingmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…To estimate the breaking depth for hurricane waves of known deep-water characteristics (height and period/wavelength), we used the breaker index b , also known as the breaker height index (e.g., Blenkinsopp and Chaplin, 2008), which is the ratio of the significant wave height at breaking (H b ) to the deep-water wave height (H ∞ ), recognizing that this is underparameterised and cannot reflect specific conditions in our bathymetric setting.…”

Section: Hurricane Wave Breakingmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Retrograde Accretion of a Caribbean Fringing Reef Controlled by Hurricanes and Sea-level Rise

Blanchon

Richards²,

Bernal

et al. 2017

Front. Earth Sci.

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Predicting the impact of sea-level (SL) rise on coral reefs requires reliable models of reef accretion. Most assume that accretion results from vertical growth of coralgal framework, but recent studies show that reefs exposed to hurricanes consist of layers of coral gravel rather than in-place corals. New models are therefore needed to account for hurricane impact on reef accretion over geological timescales. To investigate this geological impact, we report the configuration and development of a 4-km-long fringing reef at Punta Maroma along the northeast Yucatan Peninsula. Satellite-derived bathymetry (SDB) shows the crest is set-back a uniform distance of 315 ±15 m from a mid-shelf slope break, and the reef-front decreases 50% in width and depth along its length. A 12-core drill transect constrained by multiple 230 Th ages shows the reef is composed of an ∼2-m thick layer of coral clasts that has retrograded 100 m over its back-reef during the last 5.5 ka. These findings are consistent with a hurricane-control model of reef development where large waves trip and break over the mid-shelf slope break, triggering rapid energy dissipation and thus limiting how far upslope individual waves can fragment corals and transport clasts. As SL rises and water depth increases, energy dissipation during wave-breaking is reduced, extending the clast-transport limit, thus leading to reef retrogradation. This hurricane model may be applicable to a large sub-set of fringing reefs in the tropical Western-Atlantic necessitating a reappraisal of their accretion rates and response to future SL rise.

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Section: Hurricane Wave Breakingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Hurricane Wave Breakingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Retrograde Accretion of a Caribbean Fringing Reef Controlled by Hurricanes and Sea-level Rise

Blanchon

Richards²,

Bernal

et al. 2017

Front. Earth Sci.

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Unfortunately, Mead and Black collected no direct quantitative wave data and consequently proposed that the vortex ratio is independent of wave characteristics and depends solely on seafloor slope. However, Blenkinsopp and Chaplin (2008) measured vortex ratios ranging from 1.46 to 2.28 on a constant slope of 1:10, thus indicating that slope is not the only factor effecting vortex parameters as predicted by Eq. (85).…”

Section: Wave Vortex Parameters and Breaking Intensitymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Subsequent to the constant vortex ratio of 2.57 prediction of Longuet-Higgins (1982), field and flume based work (Blenkinsopp and Chaplin, 2008;Couriel et al, 1998) reported vortex ratio values vary between 1.73 and 4.43; depending on wave and seafloor characteristics. Mead and Black (2001) analyzed the previously published images of wave vortex ratios at 23 different plane and barred location worldwide and found that Eq.…”

Section: Wave Vortex Parameters and Breaking Intensitymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Unfortunately, the exact definition of the water depth, when a wave front become vertical and breaks, varies between published authors and papers. Blenkinsopp and Chaplin (2008), Black and Rosenburg(1992), Kamphuis(1991) and Smith and Kraus(1991) all used different definitions and techniques. For this experiment, three different methods were used and later compared to determine which provided the best performance:…”

Section: Breaking Depth Extractionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Remote Measurement and Prediction of Breaking Wave Parameters

Robertson

Nistor

Hall

et al. 2014

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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The analysis of wave breaking in shallow water has been on-going for almost 150 years. Numerous research papers have been published that investigate methods to predict breaking conditions and the geometric characteristics of breaking waves. This study presents a novel, safe, and low cost method to extract breaking wave properties from irregular waves in the surf zone, using optical and in-situ measurement systems. Sensitivities studies on methods of measuring the breaking water depth are compared and the water depth at the wave trough depth, corrected for optical offsets using a still water correction of 1/3 wave height, is found to be exhibit the least variability. A new effective seafloor slope definition, based on individual breaking wavelength to depth ratios, was found to increase predictive ability over previously variable seafloor slope extraction methods. Collected field data is compared against established breaking wave height formulas with general exponential form consistently finding best correlation. An optimized breaking wave height predictor featured a root mean square relative error of only 1.672% against the measured dataset. Finally, the study of the geometric shape of the plunging wave vortex as a possible indicator for the breaking intensity of ocean waves has been ongoing for almost 50 years with limited success. The validity of using the vortex ratio and vortex angle as a method of predicting breaking intensity is examined. Through the first complete analysis of field collected irregular wave breaking vortex parameters it is illustrated that the vortex ratio and vortex angle cannot be accurately predicted using standard breaking wave characteristics and hence are not suggested as a possible indicator for breaking intensity

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The Application of Reefs in Shoreline Protection

Joy¹,

Gopinath

2021

Handbook of Ecological and Ecosystem Engineering

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The effect of relative crest submergence on wave breaking over submerged slopes

Cited by 48 publications

References 11 publications

Retrograde Accretion of a Caribbean Fringing Reef Controlled by Hurricanes and Sea-level Rise

Retrograde Accretion of a Caribbean Fringing Reef Controlled by Hurricanes and Sea-level Rise

Remote Measurement and Prediction of Breaking Wave Parameters

The Application of Reefs in Shoreline Protection

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