Skin color diversity is the most variable and noticeable phenotypic trait in humans resulting from constitutive pigmentation variability. This paper will review the characterization of skin pigmentation diversity with a focus on the most recent data on the genetic basis of skin pigmentation, and the various methodologies for skin color assessment. Then, melanocyte activity and amount, type and distribution of melanins, which are the main drivers for skin pigmentation, are described. Paracrine regulators of melanocyte microenvironment are also discussed. Skin response to sun exposure is also highly dependent on color diversity. Thus, sensitivity to solar wavelengths is examined in terms of acute effects such as sunburn/erythema or induced-pigmentation but also long-term consequences such as skin cancers, photoageing and pigmentary disorders. More pronounced sun-sensitivity in lighter or darker skin types depending on the detrimental effects and involved wavelengths is reviewed.

To study cutaneous pigmentation in a physiological context, we have previously developed a functional pigmented reconstructed skin model composed of a melanocyte-containing epidermis grown on a dermal equivalent comprising living fibroblasts. The present studies, using the same model, aimed to demonstrate that dermal fibroblasts influence skin pigmentation up to the macroscopic level. The proof of principle was performed with pigmented skins differing only in the fibroblast component. First, the in vitro system was reconstructed with or without fibroblasts in order to test the global influence of the presence of this cell type. We then assessed the impact of the origin of the fibroblast strain on the degree of pigmentation using fetal versus adult fibroblasts. In both experiments, impressive variation in skin pigmentation at the macroscopic level was observed and confirmed by quantitative parameters related to skin color, melanin content and melanocyte numbers. These data confirmed the responsiveness of the model and demonstrated that dermal fibroblasts do indeed impact the degree of skin pigmentation. We then hypothesized that a physiological state associated with pigmentary alterations such as photo-aging could be linked to dermal fibroblasts modifications that accumulate over time. Pigmentation of skin reconstructed using young unexposed fibroblasts (n = 3) was compared to that of tissues containing natural photo-aged fibroblasts (n = 3) which express a senescent phenotype. A stimulation of pigmentation in the presence of the natural photo-aged fibroblasts was revealed by a significant increase in the skin color (decrease in Luminance) and an increase in both epidermal melanin content and melanogenic gene expression, thus confirming our hypothesis. Altogether, these data demonstrate that the level of pigmentation of the skin model is influenced by dermal fibroblasts and that natural photo-aged fibroblasts can contribute to the hyperpigmentation that is associated with photo-aging.

The melanosome pattern was characterized systematically in keratinocytes in situ in highly, moderately, and lightly pigmented human skin, classified according to the individual typological angle, a colorimetric measure of skin color phenotype. Electron microscopy of skin samples showed qualitatively and quantitatively that in highly pigmented skin, although melanosomes are mostly isolated and distributed throughout the entire epidermis, clusters are also observed in the basal layer. In moderately and lightly pigmented skin, melanosomes are concentrated in the first layer of the epidermis, isolated-but for most of them, grouped as clusters of melanocores delimited by a single membrane. Electron tomography resolving intracellular three-dimensional organization of organelles showed that clustered melanocores depict contacts with other cellular compartments, such as endoplasmic reticulum and mitochondria. Additionally, immunogold labelling showed that clusters of melanocores do not correspond to autophagosomes or melanophagosomes but that they present, similarly to melanosomes in melanocytes, features of nonacidic, nondegradative organelles. Overall, these observations suggest that melanocore clusters do not correspond to autophagic organelles but represent reservoirs or protective structures for melanosome integrity and function. These results open avenues for understanding the basis of skin pigmentation in different skin color phenotypes.

To study human skin pigmentation in a physiological in vitro model, we developed a pigmented reconstructed skin reproducing the three-dimensional architecture of the melanocyte environment and the interactions of melanocyte with its cellular partners, keratinocytes, and fibroblasts. Co-seeding melanocytes and keratinocytes onto a fibroblast-populated collagen matrix led to a correct integration of melanocytes within the epidermal basal layer, but melanocytes remained amelanotic even after supplementation with promelanogenic factors. Interestingly, normalization of keratinocyte differentiation using keratinocyte growth factor instead of epidermal growth factor finally allowed an active pigmentary system to develop, as shown by the expression of key melanogenic markers, the production, and transfer of melanosome-containing melanin into keratinocytes. Various degrees of constitutive pigmentation were reproduced using melanocytes from different skin phenotypes. Furthermore, induction of pigmentation was achieved by treatment with known propigmenting molecules, αMSH and forskolin, thus demonstrating the functionality of the pigmentary system. This pigmented full-thickness skin model therefore represents a highly relevant tool to study the role of cell-cell, cell-matrix, and mesenchymal-epithelial interactions in the control of skin pigmentation.

Striking differences are observed in the melanogenic response of normal human melanocytes to UVA and UVB irradiation depending on culture conditions and the presence of keratinocytes. Exposure of melanocytes co-cultured with keratinocytes to UVB irradiation triggered, already at low doses (5 mJ/cm2), an increase in melanin synthesis whereas in melanocyte mono-cultures, UVB doses up to 50 mJ/cm2 had no melanogenic effect. Unlike UVB, UVA exposure caused the same melanogenic response in both mono- and co-cultures. Removing certain keratinocyte growth factors from the co-culture medium abolished the melanogenic response to UVB, but not to UVA exposure. When integrated into the basal layer of a reconstructed human epidermis, human melanocytes similarly reacted to UVA and UVB irradiation as in vivo by increasing their production and transfer of melanin to the neighboring keratinocytes which resulted in a noticeable tanning of the reconstructed epidermis. The presence of a dense stratum corneum, known to scatter and absorb UV light, is responsible for higher minimal UVB and UVA doses required to trigger a melanogenic response in the reconstructed epidermis compared to keratinocyte-melanocyte co-cultures. Furthermore, an immediate tanning response was observed in the pigmented epidermis following UVA irradiation. From these results we conclude that: (i) keratinocytes play an important role in mediating UVB-induced pigmentation, (ii) UVA-induced pigmentation is the result of a rather direct effect on melanocytes and (iii) reconstructed pigmented epidermis is the most appropriate model to study UV-induced pigmentation in vitro.