Storm wave run-up causes beach erosion, wave overtopping, and street flooding. Extreme runup estimates may be improved, relative to predictions from general empirical formulae with default parameter values, by using historical storm waves and eroded profiles in numerical runup simulations. A climatology of storm wave run-up at Imperial Beach, California is developed using the numerical model SWASH, and over a decade of hindcast spectral waves and observed depth profiles. For use in a local flood warning system, the relationship between incident wave energy spectra E(f) and SWASH-modeled shoreline water levels is approximated with the numerically simple integrated power law approximation (IPA). Broad and multi-peaked E(f) are accommodated by characterizing wave forcing with frequency-weighted integrals of E(f). This integral approach improves runup estimates compared to the more commonly used bulk parameterization using deep water wave height $$H_0$$ H 0 and deep water wavelength $$L_0$$ L 0 Hunt (Trans Am Soc Civ Eng 126(4):542–570, 1961) and Stockdon et al. (Coast Eng 53(7):573–588, 2006. 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.12.005). Scaling of energy and frequency contributions in IPA, determined by searching parameter space for the best fit to SWASH, show an $$H_0L_0$$ H 0 L 0 scaling is near optimal. IPA performance is tested with LiDAR observations of storm run-up, which reached 2.5 m above the offshore water level, overtopped backshore riprap, and eroded the foreshore beach slope. Driven with estimates from a regional wave model and observed $$\beta _f$$ β f , the IPA reproduced observed run-up with $$<30\%$$ < 30 % error. However, errors in model physics, depth profile, and incoming wave predictions partially cancelled. IPA (or alternative empirical forms) can be calibrated (using SWASH or similar) for sites where historical waves and eroded bathymetry are available.
Waves overtop berms and seawalls along the shoreline of Imperial Beach (IB), CA when energetic winter swell and high tide coincide. These intermittent, few-hour long events flood low-lying areas and pose a growing inundation risk as sea levels rise. To support city flood response and management, an IB flood warning system was developed. Total water level (TWL) forecasts combine predictions of tides and sea-level anomalies with wave runup estimates based on incident wave forecasts and the nonlinear wave model SWASH. In contrast to widely used empirical runup formulas that rely on significant wave height and peak period, and use only a foreshore slope for bathymetry, the SWASH model incorporates spectral incident wave forcing and uses the cross-shore depth profile. TWL forecasts using a SWASH emulator demonstrate skill several days in advance. Observations set TWL thresholds for minor and moderate flooding. The specific wave and water level conditions that lead to flooding, and key contributors to TWL uncertainty, are identified. TWL forecast skill is reduced by errors in the incident wave forecast and the one-dimensional runup model, and lack of information of variable beach morphology (e.g., protective sand berms can erode during storms). Model errors are largest for the most extreme events. Without mitigation, projected sea-level rise will substantially increase the duration and severity of street flooding. Application of the warning system approach to other locations requires incident wave hindcasts and forecasts, numerical simulation of the runup associated with local storms and beach morphology, and model calibration with flood observations.
By detecting light from extrasolar planets, we can measure their compositions and bulk physical properties. The technologies used to make these measurements are still in their infancy, and a lack of self-consistency suggests that previous observations have underestimated their systemic errors. We demonstrate a statistical method, newly applied to exoplanet characterization, which uses a Bayesian formalism to account for underestimated errorbars. We use this method to compare photometry of a substellar companion, GJ 758b, with custom atmospheric models. Our method produces a probability distribution of atmospheric model parameters including temperature, gravity, cloud model (f sed ), and chemical abundance for GJ 758b. This distribution is less sensitive to highly variant data, and appropriately reflects a greater uncertainty on parameter fits.
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