Background Pulque is a fermented beverage prepared with sap of Agave species in Mexico. Management of agaves for this purpose has motivated domestication of some species and high phenotypic variation that commonly causes uncertainty about the taxonomic identity of varieties traditionally managed by people. This study assumed that varieties of crop species continually arise from mutations, sexual reproduction and hybridization, among other processes, and some of them are favoured and maintained by humans. Identifying these varieties may be difficult and a challenging issue for botanists and evolutionary biologists studying processes of domestication. Through a case study, we analysed the traditional varieties of agaves used to produce pulque in Michoacán, Mexico. We aimed at identifying the varieties, analysing the relatedness among them and developing a methodological approach that could help solve taxonomic problems and study variation under domestication of this and other plant groups. We documented (1) the traditional varieties of agave used and their identity, (2) how these varieties are perceived, used and managed by the local people and (3) how management influences phenotypic and genetic variation among varieties. Methods We interviewed pulque producers in two localities of the state of Michoacán, Mexico, where we recorded management practices of agaves, the traditional varieties used, the attributes characterizing those varieties, the varieties preferred by people, and features and mechanisms of selection. We conducted multivariate analyses of morphological features of the agave varieties, as well as genetic diversity and genetic distance studies among agave varieties through 11 nuclear microsatellites. Results Seven traditional varieties of Agave were recorded in the study area. Multivariate analyses of morphology identified varieties belonging to the species A. salmiana, A. mapisaga and, presumably, A. americana. The preferred varieties have morphological features selected to make easier their management and produce higher sap yields. Genetic diversities (HE = 0. 470 to 0.594) were high compared with other Agave species with similar life history traits and use. Genetic distance analyses grouped the varieties “Verde” and “Negro” (identified as A. salmiana), whereas the varieties “Tarímbaro” and “Listoncillo” (identified as A. mapisaga) formed another group. The varieties “Blanco” and “Carrizaleño” (most probably being A. americana) clustered with varieties of A. salmiana, whereas the variety “Cenizo” appeared as a distinct group. Bayesian analysis indicated that most individuals of varieties of A. salmiana form a group and those of the varieties of A. mapisaga form another, whereas individuals of the varieties putatively belonging to A. americana clustered in similar proportions with both groups. Conclusions The traditional pulque production in the study area is an ongoing practice. It is still an important source of products for direct consumption by households and generation of economic incomes and as part of the cultural identity of local people. The most used traditional variety exhibited a marked gigantism, and although these agaves are mainly asexually propagated, populations have high genetic diversity. The local producers promote the maintenance of different traditional varieties. Our study shows the value of an integral research approach including ethnobiological, morphological and genetic information to clarify the state of variation influenced by humans on agaves, but it would be helpful to study other organisms under domestication. In addition, such approach would help to document human and non-human mechanisms generating crop varieties managed by local people.

Agave inaequidens and A. cupreata are wild species with some populations under incipient management, while A. hookeri is exclusively cultivated, used for producing the fermented beverage pulque. These species are closely related and sympatric members of the Crenatae group, but taxonomists have previously hypothesized that A. inaequidens is the most probable ancestor of A. hookeri. Our study aims at evaluating patterns of morphological and genetic divergence among populations of the three species, in order to analyze their ecological and possible evolutionary relationships. We studied 24 agave populations, 16 of them of Agave inaequidens, four of A. cupreata and four of A. hookeri. Population morphometric and genetics studies were performed using 39 morphological characters and 10 nuclear microsatellites, respectively. We estimated levels of morphological and genetic diversity and dissimilarity, as well as genetic structure and gene flow among populations and species. The three species were clearly differentiated by general plant size, lateral teeth, terminal spines, flowers and fruit size. The largest plants were those of A. hookeri followed by A. inaequidens and the smallest were A. cupreata. Multivariate analyses indicated greater morphological similarity between A. hookeri and cultivated A. inaequidens, while A. cupreata consistently appeared as a separate group. We identified similar levels of morphological diversity index (MDI) in the three species, but higher genetic diversity in A. inaequidens (MDI = 0.401–0.435; HE = 0.704–0.733), than in A. cupreata (MDI = 0.455–0.523; HE = 0.480–0.510) and the predominantly vegetative propagated crop A. hookeri (MDI = 0.335–0.688; HE = 0.450–0.567), a pattern consistent with our expectations. The morphological and genetic similarities between cultivated A. inaequidens and A. hookeri support the hypothetical evolutionary relationships among these species, but studies with cpDNA and SNPs, and including other member of the Crenatae group are necessary to further resolve these relationships.

Mexico is one of the main regions of the world where the domestication of numerous edible plant species originated. Its cuisine is considered an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity and ferments are important components but have been poorly studied. Traditional fermented foods are still diverse, but some are endangered, requiring actions to promote their preservation. Our study aimed to (1) systematize information on the diversity and cultural history of traditional Mexican fermented beverages (TMFB), (2) document their spatial distribution, and (3) identify the main research trends and topics needed for their conservation and recovery. We reviewed information and constructed a database with biocultural information about TMFB prepared and consumed in Mexico, and we analyzed the information through network approaches and mapped it. We identified 16 TMFB and 143 plant species involved in their production, species of Cactaceae, Asparagaceae, and Poaceae being the most common substrates. Microbiological research has been directed to the potential biotechnological applications of Lactobacillus, Bacillus, and Saccharomyces. We identified a major gap of research on uncommon beverages and poor attention on the cultural and technological aspects. TMFB are dynamic and heterogenous foodscapes that are valuable biocultural reservoirs. Policies should include their promotion for conservation. The main needs of research and policies are discussed.

The agaves are plants of cultural importance which have been used by humans for about 10,000 years and about 40 specific uses. The most culturally and economically important of those uses are for the production of fermented (pulque) and distilled beverages (mescal). Pulque continues to be produced in nearly all of Mexico, and the agaves used for this purpose have shown domestication syndrome. We carry out an ethnobotanical, morphological, and genetic analysis of the traditional varieties of pulque agave used in the production of aguamiel (agave sap) and pulque in the state of Hidalgo. We did semi-structured interviews, free listings, and tours with 11 agave managers. We analyzed morphology and studied genetic diversity and structure using nuclear microsatellites. We found wild-collected, tolerated, transplanted, and cultivated varieties of agave. This comprised 19 traditional varieties of pulque agave, 12 of them in production during the study, which corresponded to the species Agave americana, A. salmiana y A. mapisaga and five intraspecific entities. The varieties were grouped morphologically according to a management gradient; the wild-collected varieties were the smallest, with more lateral teeth and a larger terminal spine. The cultivated varieties clearly exhibited domestication syndrome, with larger plants and smaller dentition. The expected heterozygosity (He) of the varieties ranged from 0.204 to 0.721. Bayesian clustering suggested the existence of three genetic groups, both at the level of traditional varieties of pulque agaves and for management categories, a result that matches multivariate clustering. Pulque producers in the studied localities maintain high agrobiodiversity. The cultivated varieties exhibit domestication syndrome, as has been reported for other species of the genus with the same selection purposes. Our results support the hypothesis of a decrease in genetic diversity in crops compared to wild-growing agaves, which seems to be due to vegetative propagation, among other factors.

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Pulque is a beverage that has been prepared in Mexico since pre-Hispanic times from the fermented sap of more than 30 species of wild and domesticated agaves. We conducted studies in two communities of the state of Michoacán, in central-western Mexico, where we documented its traditional preparation and analyzed the relationship between preparation conditions and the composition and dynamics of microbiological communities, as well as the physical and chemical characteristics of the beverage. In one of the communities, Santiago Undameo (SU), people boil the sap before inoculating it with pulque inoculum; this action causes this local pulque to be sweeter, less acidic, and poorer in bacteria and yeast diversity than in the other community, Tarimbaro (T), where the agave sap is not boiled and where the pulque has more diversity of microorganisms than in SU. Fermentation management, particularly boiling of the agave sap, influences the dynamics and diversity of microbial communities in the beverage.

Background: Edible flowers are important food resources due to their high content of nutrients and bioactive compounds. In Mexico these resources have been part of the diet of indigenous and mestizo, and are also important sources of income for the families that cultivate, gather and sell them. Questions: What are the species of edible flower commercialized in local markets in Pachuca de Soto, Hidalgo, Mexico? How are they prepared? What are their nutritional contents and conservation risk categories according to literature? Studied species: Agave salmiana, A. mapisaga, Aloe vera, Arbutus xalapensis, Chenopodium berlandieri subsp.nuttalliae, Cucurbita pepo ssp. pepo, C. moschata, Dasylirion acrotrichum, Erythrina americana, Euphorbia radians, Myrtillocactus geometrizans, Phaseolus coccineus, Yucca filamentosa. Study site and dates: Local markets of Pachuca de Soto, Hidalgo, Mexico. January 2019 to March 2020. Methods: Interview-purchase with sellers and direct observations in markets. Bibliographic review of the nutritional contents of the recorded species and their conservation status. Results: We recorded 13 species of edible flowers and eight preparation methods. Five species are cultivated, five are gathered from the pine-oak forest or xerophilous scrub ecosystems and three are obtained from crops and natural ecosystems. The gualumbos (Agave salmiana and A. mapisaga) are the most commercialized flowers and had the most forms of preparation (six). Seven of the species traded are placed in a conservation risk category. Conclusions: The diversity of edible flowers used, and their preparation methods exemplify the traditional knowledge of the groups that handle them and their importance as food and economic sustenance.

Los gualumbos, las flores de los agaves son consumidos en varios estados de la república y son particularmente apreciados por los habitantes de los pueblos indígenas y de las ciudades, por lo que son comercializados en los mercados municipales y tianguis de diferentes sitios de Hidalgo. Se comen solos, asados, o como guisos que acompañan a otros platillos. Se ha alertado sobre las consecuencias de la sobreexplotación de estas flores, puesto que pueden disminuir las densidades poblacionales naturales de los agaves y tener efectos negativos en la fauna local, particularmente en los murciélagos nectarívoros, debido a que forman parte de sus recursos alimenticios. A pesar de esto, el consumo de estas flores en el Valle del Mezquital representa parte del patrimonio cultural del país y debe preservarse.