The inducible epidermal beta-defensins and the chemokine macrophage inflammatory protein-3alpha (MIP-3alpha/CCL20) are important mediators involved in innate and adaptive immunity and in the recruitment of immune cells. The aim of our study was to determine whether calcium could trigger the induction of beta-defensins (hBD-2 and hBD-3) mRNA and the release of MIP-3alpha by normal human keratinocyte monolayers. Epidermal cells derived from foreskin were cultured in defined medium supplemented with different calcium levels (0.09, 0.8 and 1.7 mM) and were stimulated or not with the pro-inflammatory cytokines tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-alpha 1-500 ng/ml) or interferon-gamma (INF-gamma 1-100 ng/ml). A high calcium concentration (1.7 mM) alone applied in culture medium for 4 days was sufficient to induce hBD-2 and hBD-3 mRNA expression. Whatever interindividual variability in the expression of hBD-2 and hBD-3 mRNA and MIP-3alpha secretion, the addition of TNF-alpha for a short duration (26h), initiated a dose-dependent and coordinated up-regulation of hBD-2 and hBD-3 mRNA and MIP-3alpha release in keratinocyte cultures. Unlike hBD-2 and hBD-3 mRNA was preferentially stimulated by IFN-gamma rather than TNF-alpha. In our experimental conditions, L-isoleucine, described to stimulate beta-defensin in bovine epithelial cells, did not exert any effect either on hBD-2 and hBD-3 transcripts or MIP-3alpha protein. Taken together, these results confirm the major role of the maturation/differentiation process of normal human keratinocytes in the induction of inducible beta-defensins and MIP-3alpha chemokine, which contribute in vivo to the immunosurveillance of the skin barrier function.

Much effort has been placed in cosmetic research for better understanding of the effects of ageing on skin's appearance, structure, mechanical properties and function. It is now of common knowledge that UV radiations induce pre-mature skin ageing notably in the epidermis where UV radiations induce keratinocyte differentiation. As UV radiations have also been shown to regulate the pro-opiomelanocortin (POMC) peptide family in the skin and because no study has been conducted so far to investigate the age-related changes in POMC and related receptors, we analysed POMC, MC-1R, MC-2R and MOR-1 at mRNA level and MC-1R, MC-2R and MOR-1 at protein level too in primary cultures of normal human keratinocytes obtained from female donors aged from 17 to 75 years old. Regarding the gene expressions, we observed that MC-1R, MC-2R and MOR-1 suffered a dramatic decrease after 50 years of age, whereas POMC increased five-fold. Western blot analysis confirmed these results except for MOR-1 whose expression appeared to decrease at older age, around 70 years old. Immunostainings specific to MC-1R, MC-2R and MOR-1 performed on full-thickness skin biopsies also revealed an intense staining in the basal and spinous layers of a 30-year-old donor, whereas no reactivity could be observed in a 60-year-old one. We conclude that POMC and POMC-related receptors suffer a dramatically disturbed balance with ageing and that this may be implicated in the general process of skin ageing.

Fighting skin ageing is one of the major targets of cosmetology research. However, traditional approaches to skin ageing using stimulation of basal keratinocyte proliferation and fibroblastic neosynthesis appear today to be incomplete, particularly considering changes occurring at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) during the course of ageing. Unfortunately, the lack of in vitro model limits the exploration process of the phenomena of DEJ ageing, and particularly the evaluation of the changes of key components, that are laminin-5, types IV and VII collagens. The aim of this work was to provide an in vitro model of reconstructed skin, base for new dosage and identification methods for qualitative and quantitative analysis of the key components of DEJ. Reverse transcriptase-polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) and quantitative RT-PCR were successfully applied to this model to analyse mRNA of laminin-5, types IV and VII collagens and their variation in 'young' and 'mature' reconstructed skin model. Finally, this model was used to test the activity of ingredients for cosmetic application, in order to modulate the expression of the major components of DEJ. To conclude, we demonstrated that this in vitro model of reconstructed young and mature skin provides a useful tool to get into the biology of the DEJ, key structure of the skin, and specifically into its dynamic changes during the ageing process.

Normal human skin controls the intrusion of microorganisms by the production of peptide antibiotics such as defensins. The aim of our study was to develop a culture model of normal human keratinocytes for optimal beta-defensin mRNA detection which allows the screening of molecules able to stimulate hBD2 and hBD3 without inducing pro-inflammatory cytokines. A keratinocyte culture model in 96-well plates, in high calcium medium (1.7 mm) allowed to analyze hBD2 and hBD3 mRNA expression in basal condition and after cell stimulation by products from diverse vegetal extracts. The release of IL-8 and the chemokine MIP-3alpha was also evaluated in cell supernatants by ELISA. Among the 184 extracts tested, 75 showed a stimulatory effect on beta-defensin expression: 40 on hBD2, 26 on hBD3 and nine on both defensins. Fifteen of these substances which also induced the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines were eliminated. Among the other substances, four were selected and were analyzed in a dose-dependent study (n = 4) by real-time quantitative RT-PCR and completed by a measure of MIP-3alpha, IL-8 and IL-1alpha levels. These data underline the important necessity of screening result controls by a quantitative method reproduced at least three times. This new method of intensive screening allowed us to exhibit vegetal extracts that were able to stimulate epidermal beta-defensin expression without inducing an up-secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines.

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