The purpose of this study was to examine the presence of aquaporin water channels in human skin and to assess their functional role. On western blots of human epidermis obtained from plastic surgery, a strong signal was obtained with polyclonal anti-aquaporin-3 antibodies. By indirect immunofluorescence on 5 microm cryosections, anti-aquaporin-3 antibodies strongly stained keratinocyte plasma membranes in human epidermis, whereas no staining was observed in the dermis or the stratum corneum or when anti-aquaporin-3 antibodies were preabsorbed with the peptide used for immunization. Similarly, a strong signal with anti-aquaporin-3 antibodies was observed in keratinocyte plasma membranes of reconstructed human epidermis in culture at the air-liquid interface for up to 3 wk. The keratinocyte plasma membrane localization of aquaporin-3 was confirmed at the electron microscope level in prickle cells. In addition an intracellular localization of aquaporin-3 was also detected in epidermis basal cells. Osmotically induced transepidermal water permeability was measured on stripped human skin and on reconstructed epidermis. Water transport across both stripped human skin and 2-3 wk reconstructed epidermis was comparable, inhibited by > 50% by 1 mM HgCl2 and fully inhibited by acid pH. By stopped-flow light scattering, keratinocyte plasma membranes, where aquaporin-3 is localized, exhibited a high, pH-sensitive, water permeability. Although human skin is highly impermeable to water, this is primarily accounted for by the stratum corneum, where a steep water content gradient was demonstrated. In contrast, the water content of viable strata of the epidermis is remarkably constant. Our results suggest that the human epidermis, below the stratum corneum, exhibits a high, aquaporin-3-mediated, water permeability. We propose that the role of aquaporin-3 is to water-clamp viable layers of the epidermis in order to improve the hydration of the epidermis below the stratum corneum.

Caspase-14, a cysteine endoproteinase belonging to the conserved family of aspartate-specific proteinases, was shown to play an important role in the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes and barrier function of the skin. In the present study, we developed a biofunctional compound that we described as a modulator of caspase-14 expression. Using normal human keratinocytes (NHK) in culture and human skin biopsies, this compound was shown to increase caspase-14 expression and partially reverse the effect of caspase-14-specific siRNA on NHK. Moreover, the increase in filaggrin expression visualized on skin biopsies and the recovery of the barrier structure after tape-stripping indicated that this compound could exhibit a beneficial effect on the skin barrier function. Considering the possible link between caspase-14 and the barrier function, a UVB irradiation on NHK and skin biopsies previously treated with the caspase-14 inducer, was performed. Results indicated that pretreated skin biopsies exhibited less signs of UV damage such as active caspase-3 and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs). Likewise, pretreated NHK were protected from UV-induced genomic DNA damage, as revealed by the Comet Assay. Finally, a clinical test showed a reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) on the treated skin compared with placebo, under UV stress condition, confirming a protecting effect. Taken together, these results strongly suggest that, by increasing caspase-14 expression, the biofunctional compound could exhibit a protective effect on the skin barrier function, especially in case of barrier damage and UV irradiation.

One of the main functions of the skin is to protect the organism against environmental threats, such as thermal stress. Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) facilitates water and glycerol transport across cell membranes and therefore regulates osmotic balance in different situations of stress. This mechanism seems to be particularly important for the resistance of different organisms to cold stress. Consequently, we were interested in investigating the effect of cold and osmotic stress on AQP3 expression in normal human keratinocytes. We developed a new active ingredient to stimulate aquaporins in skin and demonstrated the partial restoration of AQP3 expression in keratinocytes transfected with AQP3 siRNA. Moreover, we examined the effect of cold stress on cell morphology and the impact of a pre-treatment with the active ingredient. Our results indicated that induction of AQP3 helped maintain a correct organization of the actin cytoskeleton, preserving cell morphology and preventing cells from rounding. Immunofluorescent staining revealed cytoplasmic localization of AQP3 and its translocation to the cell membrane following osmotic stress. Histological ex vivo studies of skin under different conditions, such as cold environment and tape-stripping, indicated that increase in AQP3 expression appears to be involved in skin protection and showed that the pattern of AQP3 expression was more enhanced in the active ingredient-treated samples. In vivo confocal microscopy by Vivascope showed a generally healthier appearance of the skin in the treated areas. These results attest to the potential value of the active ingredient in optimizing environmental stress resistance and protecting the skin from stratum corneum damage.

Abstract:The significance of Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) as an anti-oxidant barrier of the skin, as well as a key component in anti-aging strategies for skin care products, has been firmly established. Biosynthesis of CoQ10 in the mitochondria is well known, but there is only limited information on the non-mitochondrial synthesis of CoQ10 in the skin. Recent findings in zebrafish identified that a tumor suppressor, Ubiad1, is also a key enzyme in the non-mitochondrial synthesis of CoQ10. The purpose of this study was to investigate expression of Ubiad1 in human skin, and its implication in the skin's cutaneous response to oxidative stress. We observed Ubiad1 localization in the epidermis, particularly a subcellular localization in the Golgi apparatus. Ubiad1 modulation by a pentapeptide was associated with an observed reduction in ROS/RNS stresses (−44%/−19% respectively), lipid peroxidation (−25%) and preservation of membrane fluidity under stress conditions. Electron microscopy of keratinocytes revealed a significant degree of stimulation of the Golgi complex, as well as significantly improved mitochondrial morphology. Given the importance of CoQ10 in mitigating the visible signs of skin aging, our findings identify Ubiad1 as an essential component of the defensive barriers of the epidermis.

Image processing steps and analysis techniques were developed for the quantification of photomicrographs obtained from light and fluorescence microscopy. The substrates examined were either skin cell cultures, such as normal human keratinocytes (NHK) or fibroblasts, or ex vivo skin sections. Examples of the analyses are provided for the comparison of skincare active ingredient treated samples vs. placebo to demonstrate the utility of the methods to quantify and provide numerical data for a procedure that is typically qualitative in nature and based on observations by a histologist. Quantifiable experiments that are discussed include: Fontana Masson staining for melanin expression; Nile red staining to detect cellular lipid droplets; nuclei staining with diamidino-phenylindole (DAPI); and immunofluorescent staining of protein expression with a primary antibody directed against the protein (antigen) and a secondary antibody tagged with a fluorescent dye (Alexa Fluor 488) against the primary antibody.

Researches on longevity and anti-ageing molecules have clearly evidenced the potential to increase lifespan of the cells. These recent scientific data raise interests and questions on the capacity of the cells to live longer and maintain their fundamental mechanisms of protection, reparation or degradation of abnormal proteins to maintain their capital of healthy and functional cellular activity. In this concern, this study was focused on the ubiquitin-proteasome system as an essential cellular tool to maintain the pool of functionally active proteins allowing renewal of proteins and degradation of damaged proteins. As the proteasome keeps the 'cells health capital', it should be particularly interesting to associate the maintenance of the proteasome activity with increasing longevity. Indeed, although oxidative stress damage increases with ageing leading to collagen and cellular membrane alterations, it also leads to a reduction in the proteasome activity which is critical for the cells. The aim of this study was to better understand the cellular role of the proteasome and to provide new data showing the skin beneficial effects in activating the overall system of ubiquitination and proteasomal degradation. For this purpose, in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo experiments were performed to evaluate the effects of maintaining the ubiquitin-proteasome activity in basal and stress conditions on young versus aged cells. Experiments have included evaluation of a newly developed dimerized tripeptide targeting specifically the ubiquitin-proteasome pathway. Our results have demonstrated that maintenance of this essential mechanism that participates in abnormal protein elimination and protein renewal allows maintaining cellular integrity that correlates with visible skin benefits.

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Opsin photoreceptors are responsible for the absorption of light, transduce information about daily lighting conditions and provide vision. Opsins are also involved in diverse non-visual functions such as the circadian clock. The non-visual opsin 3, also known as encephalopsin, is expressed in skin and its functions remain poorly defined.The expression of opsin 3 in human skin tissue was evaluated by immunohistochemistry, in keratinocytes and melanocytes by immunodetection. Opsin 3 and β-tubulin colocalization was performed during the keratinocyte mitotic phase. Opsin 3-siRNA transfection was used in primary keratinocytes and successful transfection was confirmed by immunodetection.These results show that opsin 3 was detected in the epidermis of human skin, both in keratinocytes and melanocytes. Opsin 3 colocalize with β-tubulin during the mitotic phase and participate in keratinocyte cell division. Opsin 3 protein expression was reduced after transfection with opsin 3-siRNA; inhibition of opsin 3-siRNA reduces keratinocyte cell proliferation and promotes the apparition of binucleated cells.This study highlights an unconventional function of opsin 3 in extra-ocular cells. Opsin 3 appears to be involved in the regulation of late cytokinesis in keratinocytes, and therefore in the maintenance of epidermal homeostasis.