Today, the need for quality wool suitable for worsted fabric production in the world is mainly met by Australian merino wool. In Turkey, which has a significant sheep population, in addition to domestic breeds, approximately 10% of the total sheep population (around four million head) is composed of merino cross breeds. However, the fleece quality is far from meeting Australian merino wool standards. Therefore, the aim of this study is to ensure a merino herd with high‐quality wool in Turkey. For this aim, by carrying out field studies in the Thrace region of Turkey where Turkish Merino sheep are widely bred, sheep with fleece that can meet the demands of the worsted industry were determined. As a result of field studies in which thousands of sheep were examined, it was determined that 43 female and 10 male sheep had fleece that would meet these standards. Then the breeders of the sheep, which had quality fleece, were persuaded and these sheep were purchased, and “Turkey's wool‐oriented Turkish (Karacabey) Merino Herd” consisting of 30 sheep and three rams was formed in the farm of Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University. In the second part of this study, a 100% wool fabric produced by using Australian merino was taken as a reference and it was aimed to produce the same fabric from Turkish merino wool. For this aim, the wool‐oriented Turkish Merino herd, which was bred at the university farm for 1 year, was shorn in May 2022. Then, Turkish and Australian merino wools were first converted into worsted yarn and then into woven fabric. The results of mechanical (tensile strength, pilling, abrasion resistance, felting shrinkage, Hofmann dimensional change, bending stiffness) and dyeability (dye‐uptake, CIE L*a*b* and colour yield (K/S) values; washing, rubbing and light fastness values) properties of fabrics produced from Turkish and Australian merino wool is presented.
As some synthetic dyes are regarded to be toxic, mutagenic and carcinogenic, the search for eco-friendly alternatives for the synthesis of dyes and coloration has gained importance. For this reason, this study focused on finding new eco-friendly alternatives for coloring cotton. 100% cotton knitted fabrics were subjected to enzymatic coloration using a commercial laccase enzyme and various precursors. After determining the colors, the effect of pH on the enzymatic dyeing process was investigated. Then the optimization of reaction conditions was also realized statistically for the precursors giving the best results in terms of color. With the aim of obtaining further improvements in color-yield values obtained in enzymatic dyeings, the effect of the pretreatment process and the use of ultrasound were also investigated. Furthermore, the reaction pathways in enzymatic coloration were explained and results were confirmed by means of Fourier Transformed Infrared analysis. As a result of experimental studies, red and lilac colors could be successfully obtained on cotton for the first time in the literature. In this way, the theoretical basis of enzymatic dye synthesis and dyeing of cotton was clarified comprehensively. Furthermore, technical (color reproducibility; washing, rubbing, light and perspiration-fastness values; and UV protection factor), economical (chemical, energy and water consumption required for dyeing (including aftertreatments) of 1 kg fabric) and ecological aspects of enzymatic dyeings were compared with reactive dyeing. According to the experimental results it was found that biological treatment alone was enough for wastewater of enzymatic coloring, while chemical treatment will also be needed in reactive dyeing wastewater. Furthermore, color reproducibility, evenness and UV protection properties of dyed samples were comparable with that of reactive dyeings. However, in terms of the fastness levels achieved, the enzymatic coloring was far behind the reactive dyeing.
Günümüzde dünya genelinde çok çeşitli koyun ırkları bulunmakla beraber, tekstil endüstrisinin kullandığı kaliteli yün lifi merinos ırkından gelmektedir. Merinos ve bunların soylarından türeyen ırklar dünyanın her yerine yayılmış durumdadır. Günümüzde artık safkan merinosların yanı sıra bunların diğer ırklarla melezlenmesiyle üretilmiş hibrit türler de mevcuttur. Merinoslar verim özelliği açısından yapağı yönlü ve et/yapağı yönlü olarak temelde iki gruba ayrılmaktadır. Bu derleme makalede merinosun tarihçesi, merinos ırkları ve bunların genel özellikleri hakkında bilgi verilmektedir.
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