BackgroundRemoval of non-cellulosic impurities from cotton fabric, known as scouring, by conventional alkaline treatment causes environmental problems and reduces physical strength of fabrics. In this study, an endo-polygalacturonase (EndoPG) from Aspergillus aculeatus produced in Pichia pastoris was evaluated for its efficiency as a bioscouring agent while most current bioscouring process has been performed using crude pectinase preparation.ResultsThe recombinant EndoPG exhibited a specific activity of 1892.08 U/mg on citrus pectin under the optimal condition at 50 °C, pH 5.0 with a Vmax and Km of 65,451.35 μmol/min/mL and 15.14 mg/mL, respectively. A maximal activity of 2408.70 ± 26.50 U/mL in the culture supernatant was obtained by high cell density batch fermentation, equivalent to a 4.8 times greater yield than that from shake-flask culture. The recombinant enzyme was shown to be suitable for application as a bioscouring agent, in which the wettability of cotton fabric was increased by treatment with enzyme at 300 U/mL scouring solution at 40 °C, pH 5.0 for 1 h. The bio-scoured fabric has comparable wettability to that obtained by conventional chemical scouring, but has higher tensile strength.ConclusionThe work has demonstrated for the first time functions of A. aculeatus EndoPG on bioscouring in eco-textile processing. EndoPG alone was shown to possess effective scouring activity. High expression level and homogeneity could be achieved in bench-scale bioreactor.Electronic supplementary materialThe online version of this article (doi:10.1186/s12896-017-0334-9) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.
Purpose The purpose of this study is to investigate the possibility of dyeing polyester (PET) fabric with natural dye extracted from annatto seeds using high temperature dyeing method. Design/methodology/approach PET fabric was dyed with annatto extract by varying dyeing parameters (temperature, time, pH and dye concentration) to determine the optimum dyeing conditions. The influences of KAl(SO4)2, FeSO4, gallnut mordants or a commercial UV absorber on colour yield and fastness properties were further studied. Findings Optimum results were obtained when the fabric was dyed at 130°C for 30 min in a dyebath containing 15 per cent (owf) annatto dye at pH 6. The dyed fabric had an orange shade and exhibited good to excellent wash, crock, perspiration fastness and fair light fastness. Further dyeing with mordants or UV absorber mostly resulted in lower colour yield and similar fastness properties. Research limitations/implications Although the light fastness was slightly improved to moderate level for the sample with UV absorber, a noticeable colour staining on cotton portion of multi-fibre fabric occurred when subjected to standard washing test. Compared to C.I. Disperse Orange 73, the annatto dye exhibited comparable colour fastness but had inferior light fastness when dyed at approximately the same colour strength. Originality/value Natural colourants from annatto seeds can be used to dye PET fabric at high temperature without mordants, yielding deep orange shade and satisfactory fastness properties. This study provides a promising application to reduce the environmental impact of synthetic dyes.
Purpose The present study aims to focus on the feasibility of using an aqueous extract from the fruit shell of Camellia oleifera Abel as a source of natural colourant in printing-paste preparation for pigment printing of cotton fabric. The effects of pre- and post-mordanting with three common metallic mordants, that is AlK(SO4)2, CuSO4 and FeSO4 on colour yield and colour fastness properties are also investigated. Design/methodology/approach The printing paste was prepared by mixing the concentrated Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shell extract solution with commercially available synthetic thickener and binder. The fabric sample was printed with the prepared printing paste using a flat-screen printing technique. To determine the effects of pre- and post-mordanting, AlK(SO4)2, CuSO4 and FeSO4 mordant aqueous solutions with various concentrations were applied using the pad-dry technique. Comparisons between printing with and without mordants were evaluated in terms of colour strength (K/S values) and colour fastness to washing, light, crocking and perspiration. Findings Without the mordants, the printed fabric had a yellowish brown shade with acceptable colour fastness properties, that is fair to good wash fastness, moderate light fastness, good to very good crocking fastness and fair to good perspiration fastness. The use of mordants, especially CuSO4 and FeSO4, not only enhanced colour strength but also imparted different colours to the fabric. Compared to the unmordanted fabrics, colour fastness properties were mostly comparable or improved in the mordanted fabrics depending on the type and concentration of mordants. Research limitations/implications Although in the case of CuSO4 the light fastness was increased to a good to very good level, it is recommended that the final print be produced with a concentration of less than 0.125 gL−1 to yield the print with the residual amount of Cu metal under the limit, that is less than 50 ppm as regulated by the Oeko-Tex® standard. Practical implications The obtained prints from Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shell extract provided shades with satisfactory colour fastness to washing, light, crocking and perspiration. The extract from Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shell has the potential to be used as an alternative to synthetic dye in the textile industry. Originality/value The use of Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shells, which are considered as abundant byproducts of tea seed oil production, as natural colouring agents for pigment printing of cotton fabric has been reported for the first time. It will minimise the environmental impact of this waste and create more valuable textile products.
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