In this paper, we measured the thermal and moisture management properties of six different types of polyester knitted fabrics that are used in the production of summer cycling clothes. The test samples were selected from the most commonly used fabric structures according to the results of a survey on a cycling team in Bursa. The fabrics were compared to determine which fabrics were more convenient for cyclists. Thus, we carried out objective fabric tests to determine the thermal resistance, water vapor resistance, air permeability and moisture management properties. Good moisture comfort, low water vapor resistance and good moisture management properties were preferred, especially in summer clothes. In the final evaluations of the fabrics, it was found that Type 6 Warp knitted raschel fabric was more convenient for summer cycling clothing because of its good air permeability, low thermal resistance, low water vapor resistance and good moisture management properties.With increased emphasis on healthy living and saving time, men and women are paying more and more attention to sporting activities. People want to spend their leisure time in sport halls, gymnasiums or engaged in other sporting activities. Cycling is one of the most popular sports. Cycling can be performed in many different weather conditions; thus, the expectations that people have from athletic apparel has increased. Athletic apparel must prevent excessive heat loss in cold weather and enable the release of sweat from the surface of the skin in hot weather. 1 Thermal resistance, air permeability, water vapor permeability and liquid water permeability have been suggested as critical properties for the thermal comfort of the clothed body. 2 Any level of physical activity will produce the need to release excessive heat to maintain a stable body temperature. 3 Heat release from the skin can be divided into dry heat loss and evaporation. 4 There are various test methods for measuring the mass diffusivity of fiber assemblies. 5 The sweating hot plate instrument best simulates the conditions under which the clothing is worn, proving test results that relate to the thermophysiological responses of people wearing clothes. 6The fabric liquid moisture transport properties in multi-dimensions can describe the moisture management properties and the influence of the human perception of moisture and comfort. 7 To evaluate the moisture management capacity of porous polymeric materials, such as fabrics, a new test method and an instrument called the moisture management tester (MMT) have been developed. 8 Over the years, many studies on clothing comfort have been carried out. Fanger showed that the conditions for thermal comfort are dependent on the activity level, the thermal resistance of the clothing, the air temperature, the mean radiant temperature, the relative air velocity and the vapor pressure of the ambient air. 9 D'Silva et al. demonstrated that polyester-fiber fabrics
This paper presents an experimental study of the effects of elastane draw ratio, pre-setting temperature and finishing process on the penetration forces of a sewing needle and damage to the elastane fibre during the sewing of cotton/elastane woven fabrics. Seam strength and seam opening strength of the fabrics were also determined for assessment of seam performance. In this study three fabric types with three different elastane weft yarn draw ratios were taken as samples for the experiments. As the first step a pre-setting process was applied to all three types of fabric at two different temperatures and at the finishing process half of the samples were treated with silicone and the other half were washed only. In total, 12 samples having different specifications were obtained. For these fabrics, nylon/elastane air-covered yarn was used as the weft yarn and cotton yarn as the warp yarn. Seam strength, seam opening strength, needle penetration forces and “needle damage index” were determined for these fabric samples. The needle penetration forces were between 100 and 140 cN and the “needle damage index” values were between 20 and 42%. Photographs were taken with an optical microscope and a scanning electron microscope to show the elastane fiber damage during the sewing.
PurposeThe aim of this paper is to study the operator activities in garment industry and the percentages of distribution of operations and to analyze the personal and delay allowances by observing the operations and deriving the ratios within a manufacturing period.Design/methodology/approachA work sampling technique is used. Relevant reports (1978‐2004) are studied to give the basis and methodology of the technique. In accordiance with work sampling techique, the operations to be observed in a sewing room are defined, the number of observations and observers required for each day and the procedure for making observations are determined and the distributions of work flows are calculated.FindingsIt is found that 72.7 per cent of working time in an general sewing room was spent for productive activities and 23.2 per cent for personal and unavoidable delay allowances.Practical implicationsWork sampling technique gives information about personal and delay allowances in a work flow of any sewing room. When the distributions of activites are determined, it is possible to find which activities are most responsible for low efficiency. For this purpose, standard operations time in a sewing room should be determined by time measurement studies and work flow should be organized.Originality/valueThis paper deals with an actual sewing room and gives general information about the distributions of activites in work flow which should be used for organization of any sewing room.
Purpose -To investigate the performance of linings in clothing. Design/methodology/approach -A total of 24 lining fabrics were produced in different constructions. 150 denier 350 twist/cm filament polyester warp yarn was used for all of the fabrics. Two different weft yarns (textured, filament) were used to produce lining fabrics in three different densities. Findings -In the garment sector, lining performance is highly important for the manufacture of proper quality garments. The main problem of linings during usage is seam slippage for some constructions.Research limitations/implications -Fabric constructions were chosen as warp rips, weft rips, ripstop (rips both in warp and weft direction) and plain weave. Seam slippage, bending behaviour, crease recovery angle and comfort properties of the linings were measured and the results evaluated. Originality/value -The paper contributes to understanding the performance of linings.
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