Two mordanting agents, aluminum potassium sulfate and aluminum acetate, in three concentrations (5%, 10%, and 20% owf) were evaluated for colorfastness to laundering and light of natural dye extracts (madder, weld, and coreopsis) on cotton print cloth. The type of aluminum mordant had a greater influence on colorfastness to laundering, whereas dye type had a greater influence on fastness to light. Aluminum acetate at 5% owf concentration gave slightly higher Gray Scale ratings for colorfastness to laundering of coreopsis and weld. All treatments had negligible to no staining on cotton. Weld had slightly better colorfastness to light ratings than the other dye types with 20% aluminum potassium sulfate rating highest. Even though the aluminum acetate mordant improved the colorfastness to laundering on weld and coreopsis at the 5% and 10% owf concentrations, it did not improve fastness to light and resulted in slightly lower fastness to light grades on coreopsis.
This study investigated the ability of natural dyes to impede the attack of black carpet beetles on wool. The dyes evaluated were naturally occurring quinines (cochineal, madder, and walnut) and flavonoids (chestnut, fustic, indigo, and logwood). All of the dyes, except indigo, were applied by using five mordanting agents (aluminum, chrome, copper, iron, and tin). Mordanting agents were used to bind natural dyes on wool. The insect resistance of the controls and dyed specimens was evaluated, following the fabric weight loss procedures in AATCC Test Method 24. All of the dyes, except indigo, increased the insect resistance of the wool fabric to attack by black carpet beetles. The wool specimens dyed with cochineal and madder, naturally occurring anthraquinone dyes, had the lowest fabric weight loss among eight natural dyes investigated. The flavonoid dyes were not effective in enhancing insect resistance. Alum, copper, and iron have no significant effect on enhancing or reducing insect resistance of any of the eight natural dyes used in this study. However, tin and chrome, when used as a mordant for cochineal, reduced the insect resistance dramatically. Surprisingly, tin improves the insect resistance of wool fabrics dyed with fustic dyes. The anthraquionones including cochineal, madder, and walnut were found to be quite effective in protecting wool fabric against black carpet beetles. Thus, the naturally occurring mordant dyes provide an alternative to insecticides in protecting wool textiles from insect attack. © 2005 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 98: 322–328, 2005
Many authors suggest evaluating the tactile hand properties of textiles in such a way that the sample cannot be seen, but this can be a cumbersome procedure. This study tested the effect of a strong visual attribute, color, on hand perception of fabrics in both descriptive and consumer studies. Panelists evaluated four cotton fabrics: poplin, flannel, knit and twill, each dyed five colors: white (no dye), dark blue, light blue, pink and yellow. In the descriptive study, minimal differences were found for only one color, yellow, in one fabric type, poplin, for four attributes: gritty, hand friction, fabric friction and softness. For the consumer study, only "brightness," a visual perception, and "harshness," which may be either visual or tactile, were different across fabrics from one color to another. Based on this study of color effects, there appears to be negligible impact of visual perception on tactile hand evaluation. This data would suggest there is little need to block the view of fabrics during hand evaluation in either descriptive or consumer studies. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONSData from this study suggest that the need to go to extraordinary means, such as blindfolding panelists, to block potential visual bias in tests of fabric 3 Corresponding
Attenuated total reflection (ATR) is a convenient mode for single fiber analysis by infrared microspectroscopy, particularly when transmission spectra are difficult to obtain or when surface preferenced sampling is desirable. Textile finishes such as spin finishes, anti-static finishes, and permanent press finishes are revealed by ATR techniques. Bicomponent fibers may be analyzed by a combination of ATR techniques, transmission techniques, and spectral subtraction.
Two cotton fabrics printed with two pigment types in six designs have been analyzed by a trained descriptive panel to evaluate the effects of pattern design, color, and fabric type on seventeen hand characteristics. The six designs include a 3.2 mm wide stripe, a paisley, a 6.4 mm diameter dotted design, a 25.4 mm wide stripe, a modern swirl, and a check with 6.4 mm crossed stripes, and are printed on a 100% cotton shirting and an interlock knit with two print paste formulations that differ in pigment type (C.I. Pigment White 6 and C.I. Pigment Blue 15:3) and concentration. Results show that fabric and pigment type have a greater influence on hand characteristics than does the design of the print. However, the pattern design has a significant influence on eight of the seventeen components, but the effects are often confounded by the fabric-print paste combination. For many of the mechanical attributes, the dotted design has the highest intensity values, whereas the 25.4 mm stripe has the lowest. Thus, fabric type, print paste formulation, and pattern design need to be considered when evaluating the hand properties of pigment prints.
Polarized infrared (IR) microspectrometry was used to measure the changes in infrared absorption resulting from the molecular orientation of single textile fibers. Dichroic ratios were determined from single experimental fibers subjected to incremental elongation from an unstretched to a stretched condition. Similar measurements were made on commercial fibers of the same polymer with known draw ratios. These infrared spectroscopic measurements provided a direct means for comparing fibers drawn under production conditions with single fibers stretched in controlled experiments. The dichroic ratio data are indicative of the molecular orientation that occurs when fibers are drawn in the manufacturing process. Dichroic ratio data of commercial fibers can be used to monitor textile fiber quality and to compare fiber evidence in forensic investigations.
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