The cosmetic market is rich in products that allow changing the color of hair. There are three options for chemical coloring, depending on the duration of the target color. Among them, there are short-term, semi-permanent, and long-term dyeing. Using synthetic ingredients, it is possible to obtain a full range of colors. Reports of undesirable side effects of chemical dyes on both the scalp and hair structure support a return to natural hair coloration and a development in this direction. The aim of the work was to draw attention to apply botanical raw materials in hair dyeing. The work presents the characteristics of the following plant materials used in hair dyeing: defenseless lawsonia, oxalic hibiscus, rhubarb, elderberry and chamomile.
Introduction. Plant oils are valued ingredients of the oil phase of cosmetics. Argan oil is a semi-drying oil and is composed mainly of unsaturated fatty acids. It also contains saturated fatty acids and antioxidants such as tocopherols and polyphenols, among others. Evening primrose oil is rich in UFA and GLA. It is also a source of vitamins, zinc, calcium, magnesium and selenium. Skin has a protective role in the human body. The quality of its function depends on the level of hydration, among other aspects. Appropriate hydration is achieved with suitable skin care products, including natural oil-based emulsions. Aim. The aim of the study was to compare the efficacy of skin hydration for two cosmetic products: argan oil cream and evening primrose oil cream. Material and methods. The studied cosmetic products were assessed in terms of their sensory properties and qualitative composition based on information published at https://ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/cosmetics/cosing_pl and guidelines included in the Regulation No 1223/2009. Corneometry was used to assess skin hydration and videodermatoscopy was performed. A tester applied a cream on herself for three weeks. Corneometry was performed once a week and videodermatoscopy was performed every day. Results. Corneometry assessment of evening primrose oil cream and argan oil cream indicated a significant increase in skin hydration following the use of the former. The hydration level of the skin of the hands was much lower than that of the face. The left side of the face was less hydrated than the right one. The hydration levels for both hands before and after the study were similar. Conclusions. The study demonstrated a significant impact of the cream used on the level of skin hydration. The evening primrose oil cream turned out to have strong hydrating properties. Despite unfavourable rheological characteristics, the cream did not display comedogenicity.
Plant-based hair coloring is a natural hair coloring method, which allows to obtain a variety of colors and additionally nourishes the scalp and hair. The aim of the study was to present the knowledge on the available dyeing methods using plant materials and to investigate the color potential of particular herbs. Lawsonia inermis, Hibiscus sabdariffa, Rheum officinale, Sambucus nigra, and Chamomilla recutita were selected to the research. A video dermatoscope was used to demonstrate the influence of the coloring process on the structure, appearance of the cortex, areola, and the core of the hair. The natural method of dyeing hair is characterized by a lower allergenic potential as compared to the synthetic method. However, taking into account the color limitations of the selected plant materials, obtaining the effect of full coverage of the hair with color, is not always possible. It was shown that the selection of additives with an appropriate pH value allows to obtain favorable results.
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