Amino acids are crucial for the cultivation of mammalian cells. This importance of amino acids was realized soon after the development of the first cell lines, and a solution of a mixture of amino acids has been supplied to cultured cells ever since. The importance of amino acids is further pronounced in chemically defined mammalian cell culture media, making the consideration of their biological and chemical properties necessary. Amino acids concentrations have been traditionally adjusted to their cellular consumption rates. However, since changes in the metabolic equilibrium of amino acids can be caused by changes in extracellular concentrations, metabolomics in conjunction with flux balance analysis is being used in the development of culture media. The study of amino acid transporters is also gaining importance since they control the intracellular concentrations of these molecules and are influenced by conditions in cell culture media. A better understanding of the solubility, stability, dissolution kinetics, and interactions of these molecules is needed for an exploitation of these properties in the development of dry powdered chemically defined media for mammalian cells. Due to the complexity of these mixtures however, this has proven to be challenging. Studying amino acids in mammalian cell culture media will help provide a better understanding of how mammalian cells in culture interact with their environment. It would also provide insight into the chemical behavior of these molecules in solutions of complex mixtures, which is important in the understanding of the contribution of individual amino acids to protein structure.Electronic supplementary materialThe online version of this article (doi:10.1007/s00726-016-2181-8) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This method allowed for the elucidation of subtle differences between the verum and the placebo even though the components of the verum naturally occur in the SC. This differentiation is not possible non-invasively by conventional methods. In this study, we found that the applied verum and placebo formulations disrupted the equilibrium of water, NMF and lipids in the SC. The adverse effects of the formulation could be mitigated by incorporating it into a simplified supplementation of NMF molecules. As a long-term effect, the amount of strongly bound water increases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) and the amount of weakly bound water decreases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) for the verum. This supplement was also unexpectedly able to prevent intercellular lipids (ICL) disorganization in selected depths. In the long term, the verum treatment limited the lateral disorganization of the ICL to the upper 20% SC depth. Further research is required to elucidate the interplay of these factors in the SC, to better understand their contribution to the equilibrium and barrier function of the skin. This understanding of the interaction of these naturally occurring components could help in the future to develop and optimize topical treatments for diseases like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis where the skin barrier is disrupted.

Avobenzone, one of the most commonly used UV filters in topical sunscreens, is susceptible to photodegradation with a consequential reduction of its UV absorbing properties. This loss of function may lead to skin irritation, photodermatosis, and photoallergic reactions caused by photodegradation byproducts. In this work, we aim to address this issue with a substance named methoxy-monobenzoylmethane (MeO-MBM), which is neither a UVB nor a UVA filter, but which converts to avobenzone, a known and approved UVA filter, under mainly UVB light irradiation. The antioxidant and intracellular radical formation properties of MeO-MBM were compared to the ones of avobenzone. The UV irradiation of MeO-MBM led to an increase in UV absorption primarily in the UVA range after conversion, both in vitro and in vivo. HPTLC and UHPLC studies illustrate the conversion of MeO-MBM to avobenzone in vitro after irradiation at 250 kJ/m2, reaching a conversion rate of 48.8%. A stable molecular antioxidant activity was observed, since 100-µM MeO-MBM was measured to be 11.2% in the DPPH assay, with a decrease to 9.7% after irradiation. In comparison, the molecular antioxidant activity of 100-µM avobenzone was determined to be 0.8%. In keratinocytes, MeO-MBM reduces the intracellular ROS by 90% and avobenzone by 75% with tBHP as the inducer and by 53% and 57%, respectively, when induced by pyocyanin, indicating the redox scavenging capacity of both these molecules. These results indicate that MeO-MBM functions initially as an antioxidant material and as a photoantioxidant during its conversion process to avobenzone. This research provides insight into the development of active ingredients for topical applications with dynamic functionalities. Using this approach, we demonstrate the possibility to extend the UV protection offered to skin cells while combating cellular stress in parallel.

<b><i>Introduction:</i></b> The skin is a major physical barrier to the environment, and thus, percutaneous delivery of active ingredients to the dermal target site faces a unique set of hurdles. The efficacy of these active ingredients is governed by their release into the underlying epidermal and dermal tissue, especially when administered topically. <b><i>Objective:</i></b> The aim of this study was to understand if different physicochemical properties influence the skin penetration of active ingredients and the depth to which they penetrate into the dermis. <b><i>Methods:</i></b> A microdialysis (MD) setup was used to compare the percutaneous penetration in superficial and deep implanted MD membranes in porcine skin. The precise MD membrane depth was determined using histological sectioning paired with microscopy, ultrasound, and a novel computed tomographic approach. <b><i>Results:</i></b> In study A, the measured depth of the superficial and deep implanted MD membranes was compared using histological sectioning, ultrasound, and computed tomography. Experimental determination of the depth up to which penetration occurs was found to be crucial to percutaneous penetration studies. In study B, the lipophilic differences of the active ingredients and its influences on the penetration was tested using hydrophilic caffeine and lipophilic LIP1 as model compounds, which have an identical molecular weight with different lipophilic characteristics. It is assumed that the lipophilic characteristics of active ingredients influence their penetration and thus governs the concentration of these molecules reaching their target site. <b><i>Conclusion:</i></b> The transdermal penetration of caffeine was found to exceed that of LIP1 through the hydrophilic environment of the dermis. Thus, the findings of this study show that the precise MD dermis localization and the physicochemical properties, such as lipophilicity, influence the penetration rate of active ingredients and lay the foundation for creating optimized transdermal delivery systems.