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Near-bed, highly resolved velocity profiles were measured in the lower 0.03 m of the water column using acoustic Doppler profiling velocimeters in narrow tidal channels in a salt marsh. The bed shear stress was estimated from the velocity profiles using three methods: the log-law, Reynolds stress, and shear stress derived from the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE). Bed shear stresses were largest during ebbing tide, while near-bed velocities were larger during flooding tide. The Reynolds stress and TKE method gave similar results, while the log-law method resulted in smaller bed shear stress values during ebbing tide. Shear stresses and turbulent kinetic energy followed a similar trend with the largest peaks during ebbing tide. The maximum turbulent kinetic energy was on the order of 1 × 10 À 2 m 2 /s 2 . The fluid shear stress during flooding tide was approximately 30% of the fluid shear stress during ebbing tide. The maximum TKE-derived shear stress was 0.7 N/m 2 and 2.7 N/m 2 during flooding and ebbing tide, respectively, and occurred around 0.02 m above the bed. Turbulence dissipation was estimated using the frequency spectrum and structure function methods. Turbulence dissipation estimates from both methods were maximum near the bed (~0.01 m). Both the structure function and the frequency spectrum methods resulted in maximum dissipation estimates on the order of 4 × 10 À 3 m 2 /s 3 . Turbulence production exceeded turbulence dissipation at every phase of the tide, suggesting that advection and vertical diffusion are not negligible. However, turbulence production and dissipation were within a factor of 2 for 77% of the estimates. The turbulence production and dissipation decreased quickly away from the bed, suggesting that measurements higher in the water column cannot be translated directly to turbulence production and dissipation estimates near the bed.

An equilibrium dune-erosion model is used every six years to assess the capability of the most seaward dune row on the Dutch Wadden islands to withstand a storm with a 1 in 10,000 probability for a given year. The present-day model is the culmination of numerous laboratory experiments with an initial cross-shore profile based on the central Netherlands coast. Large parts of the dune coast of the Wadden islands have substantially different dune and cross-shore profile characteristics than found along this central coast, related to the presence of tidal channels, ebb-tidal deltas, beach-plains and strong coastal curvature. This complicated coastal setting implies that the predictions of the dune-erosion model are sometimes doubtful; accordingly, a shift towards a process-based dune-erosion model has been proposed. A number of research findings based on recent laboratory and field studies highlight only few of the many challenges that need to be faced in order to develop and test such a model. Observations of turbulence beneath breaking waves indicate the need to include breaking-wave effects in sand transport equations, while current knowledge of infragravity waves, one of the main sand transporting mechanisms during severe storm conditions, is strongly challenged by laboratory and field observations on gently sloping beaches that are so typical of the Wadden islands. We argue that in-situ and remote-sensing field observations, laboratory experiments and numerical models need to be the pillars of Earth Scientific research in the Wadden Sea area to construct a meaningful process-based dune-erosion tool.

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