-Practical examples showcase the key role of plant-based lipids in the design of innovative sustainable specialty ingredients. Great diversity in plant origins and chemical transformations leads to great molecular diversity and explains why bio-based lipids are involved in broad ingredient categories such as biodegradable emollients, environmentally friendly surfactants, rheology modifiers and active ingredients. Choosing lipid structure, with varying fatty chain length, saturation level and branching, determines ingredient functionality and usage, as these vary, for instance in the case of surfactants, solubilizing, wetting, foaming and emulsifying properties (oil-in-water or water-in-oil). The lipid structure also impacts the ingredients' final solid or liquid appearance. Now ready-to-use ingredients can be created and we can innovate with cold processable new cosmetic formulation concepts. Perhaps most importantly, optimal selection of lipid structure and composition can also drive consumer benefits in cosmetic ingredients, especially, the final sensory experience (for excipients) and biological efficacy (for active ingredients). Biobased lipids lead to new ingredients with augmented performance and sensoriality.Keywords: ingredient / emollient / surfactant / efficacy / sensoriality Résumé -Des lipides biosourcés à forte valeur ajoutée pour la cosmétique. Cet article vise à illustrer à travers des exemples concrets le rôle clé des lipides biosourcés dans la création d'ingrédients de spécialités innovants et durables. La grande variété des plantes d'origine et la diversité des procédés de transformation chimiques expliquent la large implication des lipides biosourcés dans de nombreuses catégories d'ingrédients : les émollients et tensio-actifs respectueux de l'environnement, les modificateurs de rhéologie, ainsi que les ingrédients actifs. Le choix de la structure lipidique tel que la longueur de la chaîne grasse, son taux de saturation ou son caractère branché joue un rôle décisif dans la fonctionnalité de l'ingrédient et son usage comme, par exemple, en tant que solubilisant, mouillant, moussant ou émulsionnant (huile-dans-eau ou eau-dans-huile) pour les tensioactifs. La structure lipidique influence aussi l'aspect liquide à solide de l'ingrédient et permet ainsi de créer des ingrédients prêts à l'emploi et d'innover avec des concepts de formulation cosmétique à froid. Enfin, et cela est probablement le plus important, une choix judicieux de la structure et de la composition lipidique peut aussi orienter les bénéfices de l'ingrédient pour le consommateur final, en particulier l'expérience sensorielle pour les excipients et l'efficacité biologique pour les ingrédients actifs. Les lipides biosourcés sont à l'origine de nouveaux ingrédients avec toujours plus de performance et de sensorialité.

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Sensitive skin is a common condition that concerns many people in the world. This syndrome is defined by the occurrence of unpleasant sensations such as stinging and burning in response to stimuli that normally should not provoke such sensations. The main hypothesis attributed to the occurrence of sensitive skin is the disruption of the epidermal barrier and a greater penetration of substances such as irritants. In keratinocytes, the NF-κB pathway, which plays an important role in orchestrating inflammatory responses, is then activated. Regulation of this activation is a key issue to control inflammation. Due to the wide variety of sensory symptoms, neurosensory dysfunction also represents a mechanism to be considered. Some of the cutaneous nerve endings express TRPA1, a sensor of skin barrier insult, which is involved in a variety of physiological or cellular processes including nociception, itch and neurogenic inflammation. Regulation of such sensor activation is also an issue to consider to control neurosensory dysfunction. Coriander seed oil is a 100% virgin oil of coriander seeds and boasts a unique composition of fatty acids. The soothing effect of coriander seed oil on sensitive skins was investigated by studying its capacity to regulate NF-κB and TRPA1 activation. Coriander seed oil allowed the regulation of NF-κB activation induced by TNF-α in an in vitro model of inflammation in keratinocytes. It also regulated the activation of TRPA1 induced by allyl isothiocyanate in an in vitro model of keratinocytes-neurons co-culture. These results are in favor of a soothing effect of coriander seed oil.

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Sensitive skin is a common condition that affects many people in the world, especially women. This syndrome is defined by the occurrence of unpleasant sensations such as stinging and burning in response to stimuli that should not normally provoke such sensations. Coriander seed oil (CSO) is a 100% virgin oil of coriander seeds and boasts a specific composition of fatty acids, mainly petroselinic acid (60–75%). It has demonstrated its ability to regulate inflammation (NF-κB pathway) and nociception (TRPA1 pathway), two mechanisms supporting sensitive skin, in previous in vitro research. It was, therefore, a good candidate to be tested in vivo on sensitive skin conditions. A pilot clinical study was conducted to evaluate the effect of this ingredient on healthy women showing excessive skin reactions, mainly redness and discomfort when subjected to external stress. The results showed that the daily consumption of 200 mg of CSO for 28 days effectively reduced redness induced by stripping stress and itching induced by stinging stress. It also improved the perception of skin sensitivity and reactivity after 56 days of consumption. These clinical results confirmed that CSO is a promising ingredient to contribute to reducing reactivity in sensitive skin.