We recorded X-ray diffraction, 13C CP-MAS NMR, and infrared spectra of silk fibroin samples from Bombyx mori in the solid state, prepared under different conditions, in order to compare conformational features obtained by the respective methods. These three methods provided consistent data as to the presence of the most stable silk II form. Silk I and random-coil forms were distinguishable only by the extent of line broadening in 13C NMR peaks, although the chemical shifts are the same. The most obvious advantage of the 13C CP-MAS NMR approach is that this method is intrinsically nondestructive and very convenient for evaluation of the relative proportion of silk I and II forms in the same sample. We found that powder formation even at liquid-nitrogen temperature caused a change from silk I to random-coil form, although the amount of silk II form remains unchanged during this procedure. In view of the sample preparation conditions as well as the similarity of the 13C chemical shifts and infrared spectra between the silk I and random-coil forms, it is plausible that the random-coil form is a mixture of silk I type forms whose long-range crystalline packing is distorted to the extent to give halo X-ray diffraction.

To investigate the influence of bleaching treatments on keratin fibers, the structure of cross-sections at various depths of bleached human hair (black and white human hair) was directly analyzed without isolating the cuticle and cortex, using Raman spectroscopy. The S-S band intensity existing from the cuticle region to the center of cortex region of virgin white human hair decreased, while the S-O band intensity at 1040 cm(-1), assigned to cysteic acid, increased by performing the bleaching treatment. Especially, the S-O band intensity of the cuticle region increased remarkably compared with that of the cortex region. Also, the amide III (unordered) band intensity in the cortex region increased, indicating that some of the proteins existing throughout the cortex region changed to the random coil form. Moreover, it has been found that the S-S band intensity existing from the cuticle region to the center of the cortex region of the virgin black human hair decreased remarkably, while the S-O band intensity increased significantly compared with that of the virgin white human hair by performing the bleaching treatment. From these experiments, we concluded that the melanin granules including metal ions act as a decomposition accelerator for the oxidizing agent, thereby leading to a higher level of disulfide (-SS-) group cleavage in the black human hair compared with that of the white human hair.

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In order to investigate the influence of chemical treatments (reduction, heating, and oxidation) on keratin fibers, the structure of virgin white human hair resulting from a permanent hair straightening process at various depths of cross-sectional samples was directly analyzed without isolating the cuticle and cortex, using Raman spectroscopy. The band shape of the cuticle was different from that of the cortex, and the cuticle had a more amorphous structure, compared with the cortex. The S-S band intensity existing in the hair surface remarkably decreased, while the S-S band intensity in the hair center was not changed by performing the reduction process. In the case of heating the keratin fibers after the reduction process, this tendency was unchanged. On the other hand, the amide III (unordered) band intensity in the cortex region increased, indicating that proteins existing throughout the cortex region caused a change to the random coil form. Moreover, approximately 95% of the disconnected -SS- groups were clearly reconnected by performing the oxidation process after heating (the degree of reconnection of -SS- groups was about 90%, in the case of oxidizing after reduction). From these experiments, we concluded that the heat treatment process in the permanent hair straightening treatment caused the randomization of proteins existing throughout the cortex region, thereby contributing to the acceleration of the reconnection of -SS- groups during the oxidation process.

To investigate the mechanism leading to the reduction in tensile strength of permanent waved human hair, the structure of cross-sections at various depths of permanent waved white human hair was directly analyzed without isolating the cuticle and cortex, using Raman spectroscopy. The beta-sheet and/or random coil content (beta/R) and the Amide III(unordered) band intensity existing throughout the cortex region of virgin white human hair remarkably increased, while the alpha-helix (alpha) content slightly decreased by performing the permanent waving treatment. This suggests a secondary structural change from the alpha-helix form to the random coil form in the proteins existing in the microfibril of the cortex region. On the other hand, the S-S band intensity existing in the matrix of the cortex region almost did not change, despite the reduction in the tensile strength of the white human hair following the permanent waving treatment. Moreover, the transmission electron microscope observation shows that the macrofibril (the microfibril and matrix) existing in the cortex region of the virgin white human hair was remarkably disturbed, while the cuticle region was almost unchanged by performing the permanent waving treatment. From these experiments, the authors concluded that some of proteins existing in the cortex region (the microfibril and matrix) of the virgin white human hair were changed, thereby leading to the remarkable reduction in the tensile strength of the white human hair after the permanent waving treatment.

For the purpose of investigating in detail the influence of chemical modification using 2-iminothiolane hydrochloride (2-IT) on keratin fibers, the structure of cross-sections at various depths of white human hair, treated with 2-IT and then oxidized, was directly analyzed without isolating the cuticle and cortex, using Raman spectroscopy. In particular, the beta-sheet and/or random coil content (beta/R) and the alpha-helix (alpha) content in human hair fibers were estimated by amide I band analysis. The S-S band intensity, amide III (unordered) band intensity, and beta/R content existing from the cuticle region to the center of cortex region of virgin white human hair remarkably increased by performing the chemical modification using 2-IT. On the other hand, not only the S-S band intensity, but also S-O band intensity existing throughout the cortex region of the bleached (damaged) white human hair increased by performing chemical modification using 2-IT. In particular, beta/R content existing throughout the cortex region of the bleached white human hair decreased, while the skeletal C-C stretch (alpha) band intensity at 935 cm(-1) and the alpha content remarkably increased. This indicates a secondary structural change from the random coil form to the alpha-helix form in the proteins existing throughout the cortex region. From these experiments, we concluded that the formation of new disulfide (-SS-) groups resulting from chemical modification using 2-IT induced the secondary structural changes of proteins existing throughout the cortex region.

To investigate the internal structure changes in virgin black human hair keratin fibers due to aging, the structure of cross‐sections at various depths of virgin black human hair (sections of new growth hair: 2 mm from the scalp) from a group of eight Japanese females in their twenties and another group of eight Japanese females in their fifties were analyzed using Raman spectroscopy. For the first time, we have succeeded in recording the Raman spectra of virgin black human hair, which had been impossible due to high melanin granule content. The key points of this method are to cross‐section hair samples to a thickness of 1.50‐μm, to select points at various depths of the cortex with the fewest possible melanin granules, and to optimize laser power, cross slit width as well as total acquisition time. The reproducibility of the Raman bands, namely the α‐helix (α) content, the β‐sheet and/or random coil (β/R) content, the disulfide (SS) content, and random coil content of two adjoining cross‐sections of a single hair keratin fiber was clearly good. The SS content of virgin black human hair from the Japanese females in their fifties for the cortex region decreased compared with that of the Japanese females in their twenties. On the other hand, the β/R and α contents of the cortex region did not change. © 2007 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. Biopolymers 87: 134–140, 2007.This article was originally published online as an accepted preprint. The “Published Online” date corresponds to the preprint version. You can request a copy of the preprint by emailing the Biopolymers editorial office at biopolymers@wiley.com

In order to investigate the reduction mechanism of L-cysteine (Cys) on keratin fibers, cross-sectional samples of virgin white human hair treated with Cys were prepared. The heterogeneous reaction between Cys and keratin fibers involving the diffusion of Cys into human hair was analyzed at the molecular level using microspectrophotometry and Raman spectroscopy. The diffusion pattern of Cys into human hair showed non-Fickian type characteristics, thus indicating the free amino groups of electrostatically interacted with the anionic ions of the fiber surface. The disconnected relative concentration of -SS- groups at various depths of the hair samples with pH 9.0 was less than the Cys relative concentration, indicating that the reaction rate (the disconnection of -SS- groups) was slower than the diffusion rate of Cys into human hair. From these experiments, we concluded that the free amino groups of Cys electrostatically interacted with the anionic ions of the fiber surface, thereby decreasing the reaction rate (the disconnection of -SS- groups) of Cys at pH 9.0.