The depigmenting effect of kojic acid esters synthesized by the esterification of kojic acid using Rhizomucor miehei immobilized lipase was investigated in B16F1 melanoma cells. The depigmenting effect of kojic acid and kojic acid esters was evaluated by the inhibitory effect of melanin formation and tyrosinase activity on alpha-stimulating hormone- (α-MSH-) induced melanin synthesis in B16F1 melanoma cells. The cellular tyrosinase inhibitory effect of kojic acid monooleate, kojic acid monolaurate, and kojic acid monopalmitate was found similar to kojic acid at nontoxic doses ranging from 1.95 to 62.5 μg/mL. However, kojic acid monopalmitate gave slightly higher inhibition to melanin formation compared to other inhibitors at doses ranging from 15.63 to 62.5 μg/mL. Kojic acid and kojic acid esters also show antioxidant activity that will enhance the depigmenting effect. The cytotoxicity of kojic acid esters in B16F1 melanoma cells was significantly lower than kojic acid at high doses, ranging from 125 and 500 μg/mL. Since kojic acid esters have lower cytotoxic effect than kojic acid, it is suggested that kojic acid esters can be used as alternatives for a safe skin whitening agent and potential depigmenting agents to treat hyperpigmentation.

Red palm oil (RPO) is a natural source of Vitamin E (70–80% tocotrienol). It is a potent natural antioxidant that can be used in skin-care products. Its antioxidant property protects skin from inflammation and aging. In our work, a tocotrienol-rich RPO-based nanoemulsion formulation was optimized using response surface methodology (RSM) and formulated using high pressure homogenizer. Effect of the concentration of three independent variables [surfactant (5–15 wt%), co-solvent (10–30 wt%) and homogenization pressure (500–700 bar)] toward two response variables (droplet size, polydispersity index) was studied using central composite design (CCD) coupled to RSM. RSM analysis showed that the experimental data could be fitted into a second-order polynomial model and the coefficients of multiple determination (R2) is 0.9115. The optimized formulation of RPO-based nanoemulsion consisted of 6.09 wt% mixed surfactant [Tween 80/Span 80 (63:37, wt)], 20 wt% glycerol as a co-solvent via homogenization pressure (500 bar). The optimized tocotrienol-rich RPO-based nanoemulsion response values for droplet size and polydispersity index were 119.49nm and 0.286, respectively. The actual values of the formulated nanoemulsion were in good agreement with the predicted values obtained from RSM, thus the optimized compositions have the potential to be used as a nanoemulsion for cosmetic formulations.

Abstract:In this study, 7-O-kojic acid monopalmitate (7-O-KAP) was synthesized using palmitic acid and kojic acid where the yield and biological activities were analyzed. The highest yield of 7-O-KAP (43%) can be obtained at molar ratio of 1:1, enzyme loading of 5% (w/v), temperature of 70 • C, using immobilized lipase N435 in solvent-free system. Stirred tank reactor (STR) provides better mixing of the substrates and biocatalyst with better yield of 7-O-KAP, compared to fluidized tank reactor (FTR) and packed bed reactor (PBR). The 7-O-KAP exhibited pseudoplastic behavior with flow behavior index (n) being less than 1. The 7-O-KAP showed better depigmenting activity with the reduction of melanin content in Danio rerio embryo to 18.70%, significantly lower than the positive control, kojic acid (60.39%) at highest concentration tested (250 µg/mL). Intracellular tyrosinase in Danio rerio embryo was also reduced when treated with 7-O-KAP (12.53%), compared to kojic acid (37.36%) at concentration of 250 µg/mL. In FRAP assay, 7-O-KAP had antioxidant activity of 8156 AAE/mL, which was higher than kojic acid (6794 AAE/mL) at concentration of 2 mg/mL. The 7-O-KAP also reduced peroxidation activity to 12.21%, which was better compared to kojic acid (31.68%) at 2 mg/mL. Moreover, it was found that lipid peroxidation activity of 7-O-KAP (12.21%) was comparable to BHT (11.56%) at 2 mg/mL. Based on this study, 7-O-KAP could be an alternative compound for whitening agent and antioxidant compared to kojic acid and BHT, respectively.

Summary Human skin pigmentation is a result of constitutive and facultative pigmentation. Facultative pigmentation is frequently stimulated by UV radiation, pharmacologic drugs, and hormones whereby leads to the development of abnormal skin hyperpigmentation. To date, many state‐of‐art depigmenting compounds have been studied using in vitro model to treat hyperpigmentation problems for cosmetic dermatological applications; little attention has been made to compare the effectiveness of these depigmenting compounds and their mode of actions. In this present article, new and recent depigmenting compounds, their melanogenic pathway targets, and modes of action are reviewed. This article compares the effectiveness of these new depigmenting compounds to modulate several melanogenesis‐regulatory enzymes and proteins such as tyrosinase (TYR), TYR‐related protein‐1 (TRP1), TYR‐related protein‐2 (TRP2), microphthalmia‐associated transcription factor (MITF), extracellular signal—regulated kinase (ERK) and N‐terminal kinases (JNK) and mitogen‐activated protein kinase p38 (p38 MAPK). Other evidences from in vitro assays such as inhibition on melanosomal transfer, proteasomes, nitric oxide, and inflammation‐induced melanogenesis are also highlighted. This article also reviews analytical techniques in different assays performed using in vitro model as well as their advantages and limitations. This article also provides an insight on recent finding and re‐examination of some protocols as well as their effectiveness and reliability in the evaluation of depigmenting compounds. Evidence and support from related patents are also incorporated in this present article to give an overview on current patented technology, latest trends, and intellectual values of some depigmenting compounds and protocols, which are rarely highlighted in the literatures.

For years, clinical studies involving human volunteers and several known pre-clinical in vivo models (i.e., mice, guinea pigs) have demonstrated their reliability in evaluating the effectiveness of a number of depigmenting agents. Although these models have great advantages, they also suffer from several drawbacks, especially involving ethical issues regarding experimentation. At present, a new depigmenting model using zebrafish has been proposed and demonstrated. The application of this model for screening and studying the depigmenting activity of many bioactive compounds has been given great attention in genetics, medicinal chemistry and even the cosmetic industry. Depigmenting studies using this model have been recognized as noteworthy approaches to investigating the antimelanogenic activity of bioactive compounds in vivo. This article details the current knowledge of zebrafish pigmentation and its reliability as a model for the screening and development of depigmenting agents. Several methods to quantify the antimelanogenic activity of bioactive compounds in this model, such as phenotype-based screening, melanin content, tyrosinase inhibitory activity, other related proteins and transcription genes, are reviewed. Depigmenting activity of several bioactive compounds which have been reported towards this model are compared in terms of their molecular structure and possible mode of actions. This includes patented materials with regard to the application of zebrafish as a depigmenting model, in order to give an insight of its intellectual value. At the end of this article, some limitations are highlighted and several recommendations are suggested for improvement of future studies.

Members of Bacillaceae family are of major interest in medical industry due to vast antimicrobial peptides they produce as therapeutic agents. For decades, synthetic and natural occurring antibiotics have been used to treat infectious diseases, but heavy dependence on these drugs has led to significant drawbacks which propel continuous development of new antibiotics generation. Recent findings have shown several bacteriocins of Bacillaceae as promising alternatives to the conventional drugs to combat the emergence of new drug-resistant pathogens. In this present review, Bacillaceae bacteriocins' classification such as lantibiotics and thiazole/oxazole-modified microcins as well as their biochemical characterization such as sensitivity to enzymes, temperature, pH and chemicals are described. This article enlightens on the medical application of several Bacillaceae bacteriocins emphasizing those that underwent and ongoing preclinical trials. This review also discusses the development of Bacillaceae bacteriocins production, focusing strains selection and fermentation factors such as inocula size, medium (carbon, nitrogen, minerals sources), temperature, pH, agitation and aeration rate, dissolved oxygen tension (DOT), fermentation time, inducers and mode of operation via various statistical methods for their optimization. It also highlights recent advance in the production of bioengineered and recombinant bacteriocins in bioreactors system which are rarely disclosed in literature.

Background:Study on the synthesis of kojic acid derivatives (KADs) in solvent-free system using scalable reactors and their biological activities is still lacking.Methods:In this study, two types of KADs, were synthesized using saturated-fatty acid [lauric acid (LA)] and unsaturated-fatty acid [oleic acid (OA)] in stirred tank reactor (STR) and fluidized tank reactor (FTR). The yield and biological activities of the synthesized KADs were evaluated and compared.Results:The highest yield of KADs (42.95%) was obtained in the synthesis using OA, with molar ratio of 1:1, enzyme loading of 5% (w/v), temperature of 70°C, using immobilized lipase N435 in STR. However, FTR may provide biocatalyst protection and reusability with reduced loss of KADs yield up to three cycles. In antioxidant assay, the hydroxyl-unsaturated-fatty acid of kojic acid (HUFA-KA) showed better activity as compared to hydroxyl-saturated-fatty acid of kojic acid (HSFA-KA) at concentrations ranging from 125 to 2000 μg/mL. In contrast, HSFA-KA showed better cytotoxicity effect against G361 melanoma cell as compared to HUFA-KA.Conclusion:The yield of KADs obtained in STR was higher than that obtained in FTR. HUFA-KA could be used as potential lipophilic antioxidant while HSFA-KA has the potential to be used to treat melanoma skin disorder.

In this paper, enzymatic methods for the synthesis of 5-hydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-4H-pyran-4-one (kojic acid) esters are reviewed. Important process parameters related to the synthesis of kojic acid esters such as the type of immobilized lipase, solvent, temperature, initial water activity, water content, pH, metal salts, enzyme loading, substrates mole ratio, and acyl donors are highlighted and discussed. The properties of kojic acid esters related to their solubility, stability, cytotoxicity, depigmenting activity, tyrosinase inhibitory, metal-chelating, anti-oxidant, and other biological activities are also highlighted. At present, kojic acid and its esters are widely used in cosmetic and skin health industries as skin whitening agents. The advantages and disadvantages of various kojic acid esters are compared and possible industrial applications of these derivatives are also discussed.