2013
DOI: 10.1111/nzg.12032
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Worlds of wool: Recreating value off the sheep's back

Abstract: Recent attempts to recreate the wealth once generated in New Zealand from wool are discussed. These attempts are theorised as active processes of assemblage within overlapping and interacting social worlds. The focus of the paper is ethnographic, engaging with the actors in worlds of wool as they experiment with ways to retain and add value by enhancing connectivity between farmer‐producers, manufacturers and consumers; delineating and capturing value by constructing new products and brands; and continually de… Show more

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Cited by 14 publications
(9 citation statements)
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“…An important premium market for the British wool industry is Japan, where there is a strong appreciation of the tradition, heritage and craft of British textiles and British fashion more broadly, being, for example, one of the major markets for hand‐woven Harris Tweed (The Scotsman ). This can be seen in contrast with the New Zealand wool industry, where value has been derived through the promotion of farm‐level traceability by companies such as Icebreaker (Pawson and Perkins ). By contrast, the USA is viewed as an emerging market for British wool, as it currently accounts for only 3% of UK wool exports.…”
Section: Tracing Newtown Woolmentioning
confidence: 95%
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“…An important premium market for the British wool industry is Japan, where there is a strong appreciation of the tradition, heritage and craft of British textiles and British fashion more broadly, being, for example, one of the major markets for hand‐woven Harris Tweed (The Scotsman ). This can be seen in contrast with the New Zealand wool industry, where value has been derived through the promotion of farm‐level traceability by companies such as Icebreaker (Pawson and Perkins ). By contrast, the USA is viewed as an emerging market for British wool, as it currently accounts for only 3% of UK wool exports.…”
Section: Tracing Newtown Woolmentioning
confidence: 95%
“…Another core attribute of an assemblage for DeLanda is that the individual components can simultaneously carry out material and expressive roles integral to the functioning of that set of relations, bringing in a discursive dimension that extends the material focus of actor‐network theory. These concerns are evident within the work of Pawson and Perkins () on the shifting dynamics of the New Zealand wool industry. Although these authors do not explicitly referencing the work of DeLanda, they apply an assemblage reading to the myriad of organic and inorganic participants who are involved in various attempts to capture and add value through the creation of new wool products and brands.…”
Section: Doing Assemblagementioning
confidence: 99%
“…The New Zealand Merino Company (NZM) has played a vital role in the establishment of these relationships. It has sought to move beyond a commodity model, by separating merino from the bulk wool clip and differentiating and naming it as a special and distinct fibre in its own right (Pawson and Perkins, ; Perkins and Pawson, ). This has been a key means towards the creation of enhanced value (Table ).…”
Section: Making Merinomentioning
confidence: 99%
“…The SI works through: new initiatives in red meat breeding and export to the UK (Henry and Roche, ); more nuanced attempts at wool marketing, drawing on place‐ and producer‐specific imagery and narrative in an attempt to create an aura of authenticity around local wool production (Pawson and Perkins, ); innovative tourism strategies in Central Otago (Rosin et al ., ); the governance of New Zealand Farmers' Markets (Joseph et al ., ); and wine marketing (Le Heron et al ., ). There is insufficient space here to provide a comprehensive review of each of the SI papers so some general comments on the SI will have to suffice.…”
Section: Farming and Regional Development In An Era Of Multifunctionamentioning
confidence: 99%