Wave runup and overwash on a prototype-scale sand barrier

Blenkinsopp, Chris; Matias, Ana; Howe, Daniel; Castelle, Bruno; Marieu, Vincent; Turner, Ian L.

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.08.006

Cited by 43 publications

(48 citation statements)

References 53 publications

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“…The potential for lateral overwash at transect N2 may vary with different hydrodynamic conditions, and this may contribute some of the variability in inundation frequency observed in Figures 10 and 11. It should be noted, however, that the variability observed here due to wave overtopping driving inundation is comparable to that observed by other studies that have investigated other nearshore, wave-related parameters such as wave driven run-up and overwash (e.g., [26,27]), wave driven setup (e.g., [30,31]), and the nearshore wave breaker criterion (e.g., [32,33]). …”

Section: Overwash Wave Inundation Frequenciesmentioning

confidence: 55%

“…The influence of wave period (through wavelength) on platform inundation was assessed by the use of √ H s L m01 , which is commonly used in wave runup investigations on sandy beaches (e.g., [26,27] (Figure 10c,d). Figure 10c,d).…”

Section: Overwash Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Four hydrodynamic parameters were investigated to assess correlations between offshore conditions and platform inundation frequency: (1) significant wave height (Hs), (2) The influence of wave period (through wavelength) on platform inundation was assessed by the use of , which is commonly used in wave runup investigations on sandy beaches (e.g., [26,27]), as well as a modified version that incorporates SWL, (1.8 + SWL)…”

Section: Overwash Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

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Automated Sensing of Wave Inundation across a Rocky Shore Platform Using a Low-Cost Camera System

et al. 2017

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Rocky coastlines are frequently used for recreation, however, they are often highly exposed and hazardous environments resulting in high risk to visitors. Traditional approaches to managing human safety in coastal settings (such as the surf lifesaving clubs that have proven effective on beaches) are not necessarily transferable to rock platforms due to their often remote and fragmented distribution and the different recreational uses. As such, a different approach is required. To address this, we present a low-cost camera system to assess the wave hazard on a high-visitation rocky shore platform: the Figure Eight Pools Rock Platform, New South Wales, Australia. The camera system is shown to be highly effective and allows identification of both the distance and frequency of wave inundation on the platform using a novel pixel analysis technique. Nearshore wave height is shown to be the primary factor driving inundation frequencies along the cross-platform transect investigated with some influence from wave period. The remotely sensed camera data are used to develop a preliminary overwash hazard rating system, and analysis of the first month of data collected suggests that the platform is highly hazardous to visitors. Future work will expand this hazard rating system, developing a predictive tool that estimates the overwash hazard level based on forecast wave and tide conditions to improve visitor safety at the site.

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Section: Overwash Wave Inundation Frequenciesmentioning

confidence: 55%

Section: Overwash Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Overwash Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

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Automated Sensing of Wave Inundation across a Rocky Shore Platform Using a Low-Cost Camera System

et al. 2017

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“…Wave run-up in coastal regions has been the subject of numerous laboratory and field experiments since the 1940s, and it is commonly known that wave run-up height depends on particle properties such as size and density, wave climate including wave frequency and wave height, as well as beach slope (e.g. Bagnold, 1940;Dupr e, 1984;Silvester & Hsu, 1993;Lorang, 2002;Blenkinsopp et al, 2016;Matias et al, 2016). However, it is usually too difficult to decipher subtle parameters such as wave period and wavelength from rock records to apply the delicate equations proposed by, for example, Silvester & Hsu (1993), Lorang (2002), Blenkinsopp et al (2016).…”

Section: Waves On Lakesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Bagnold, 1940;Dupr e, 1984;Silvester & Hsu, 1993;Lorang, 2002;Blenkinsopp et al, 2016;Matias et al, 2016). However, it is usually too difficult to decipher subtle parameters such as wave period and wavelength from rock records to apply the delicate equations proposed by, for example, Silvester & Hsu (1993), Lorang (2002), Blenkinsopp et al (2016). An old and simple empirical equation is used here (Eq.…”

Section: Waves On Lakesmentioning

confidence: 99%

A method to define the palaeowind strength from lacustrine parameters

et al. 2017

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Gravelly beach ridges, which are formed solely by swash processes, may accurately reflect past wave conditions. The thickness (or height) of a gravelly beach ridge approximately equals the height of wave inundation, which is the sum of the surge and wave run‐up. Their ancient counterparts, if well‐preserved and identified, can be used to estimate palaeowave conditions, which can later be converted to palaeowind intensities based on wind–wave relationships. A technique is described for estimating the palaeowind speed in this paper, which is referred to as the gravelly beach‐ridge thickness technique. By comparing these estimates with instrumental wind records obtained at a modern lake, Qinghai Lake in north‐western China, the beach‐ridge thickness technique is shown to be useful for estimating the average wind speed (Vavg). When applying this method to ancient fetch‐limited basins, five parameters are necessary: (i) the thickness of the isolated gravelly beach ridge; (ii) the average depth of the water body; (iii) the palaeofetch; (iv) the angle between the palaeowind direction and the normal to the shoreline; and (v) the particle size. This technique was applied to an ancient example in the Eocene Dongying Depression, located in eastern China. The results indicate that the average wind speed of the northern wind ranged between 2·27 m sec−1 and 8·36 m sec−1 from 45·0 Ma to 42·0 Ma, and displayed a generally decreasing trend that included early strengthening followed by weakening and later strengthening during this period. The beach‐ridge thickness technique provides a new perspective on delineating palaeowind conditions and can be applied to ancient fetch‐limited basins with gravelly beach ridges worldwide. Generally, if a water body is sufficiently large (fetch exceeding 40 km), deep (average depth exceeding 10 m) and waves (or winds) are determined to approach the shoreline with high angles (angle of incidence <35°), then the calculation errors will be small to negligible.

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