2011
DOI: 10.9753/icce.v32.waves.63
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Wave Height Distributions in Shallow Waters

Abstract: In shallow waters the wave height distribution significantly differs from Rayleigh distribution during extreme wind conditions. The EurOtop manual (Pullen et al. 2007) recommends the use of a composite Rayleigh-Weibull distribution proposed by Battjes and Groenendijk (2000) in order to describe the wave statistics in shallow waters. A test of this recommendation by using wave measurements with continuously operated radar level gauges at three different sites at the German North Sea coast for comparison r… Show more

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Cited by 10 publications
(4 citation statements)
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“…The longitudinal modulational instability vanishes when kh < 1.36, thus the high wave probability is expected to decrease in shallow water. Indeed, the calculated probability of large wave heights was below the Reyleigh distribution in the in-situ measurements by Mori et al (2002), Didenkulova and Anderson (2010), Mai et al (2010), Didenkulova (2011); all that measurements were performed in relatively shallow conditions. Numerical simulations of the Euler equations for relatively short distances performed by Fernandez et al (2016) confirm this conclusion.…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 80%
“…The longitudinal modulational instability vanishes when kh < 1.36, thus the high wave probability is expected to decrease in shallow water. Indeed, the calculated probability of large wave heights was below the Reyleigh distribution in the in-situ measurements by Mori et al (2002), Didenkulova and Anderson (2010), Mai et al (2010), Didenkulova (2011); all that measurements were performed in relatively shallow conditions. Numerical simulations of the Euler equations for relatively short distances performed by Fernandez et al (2016) confirm this conclusion.…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 80%
“…The related parameter values used in the aerodynamic and wave loads simulation are also listed in Table 1. In [29], wave measurements were carried out at the German North Sea coast, where the water depth is 29 m. During a severe storm surge on 2 October 2009, the measured significant height was 5.23 m. This data to some extent justify the significant wave height we use (H s = 2 m) for the 20-m water depth in the simulations. Extensive load cases with different combinations of V 0 and H s (correlated with each other) are not considered in the present study.…”
Section: Model Calibrationmentioning
confidence: 94%
“…The limiting characteristics of the largest waves in both intermediate and shallow waters were found to be critically dependent upon the e↵ective water depth, k L d, where k L is a local wave-number based upon a locally measured wave period, and d is water depth. In the recent literature, Mai et al (2011) reports that a modified form of the two-part Weibull-Weibull distribution is appropriate to characterise the distribution of wave height from radar level gauge measurements at three locations in the German North Sea. Katsardi et al (2013) observe that e↵ective water depth and significant wave height influence the distribution of wave height in shallow water from laboratory measurements, but that di↵erent wave spectral bandwidths and moderate bed slopes (less than 1 : 100) do not.…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%