Wave-driven geomorphology of Pacific carbonate coastlines: from landscape to wavelength scale

Abstract

The shallow marine ecosystems of coral atolls and the human communities they support are among the most vulnerable to anthropogenic climate change. Sea-level rise threatens to inundate low-lying reef islands, tropical cyclone intensification threatens islands with flooding and erosion, and ocean warming and acidification threaten the health of coral reefs. Unfortunately, the sediment dynamics that shape the morphol-

A model for wave abrasion on underwater bedrock, with an application to rapidly downwearing tephra cones adjacent to Surtsey Island in Iceland

“…The artificial substrate was prepared, having tensile strengths ranging from 0.34 to 0.71 MPa. Thirty-seven experiment runs were carried out by combining the flow velocity, sediment load, and substrate strength (Bramante, 2020, while Bramante et al (2020) employ the root-mean-square velocity, u m , for the former and the tensile strength, S t , for the latter. Applying Airy wave theory (e.g.…”