Wave Buoy Measurements at Short Fetches in the Black Sea Nearshore: Mixed Sea and Energy Fluxes

Abstract

Wave buoy measurements were carried out near the northeastern Black Sea coast at the natural reserve Utrish in 2020–2021. In total, about 11 months of data records were collected during two stages of the experiment at 600 and 1500 m offshore and depths of 18 and 42 m. The measured waves propagate almost exclusively from the seaward directions. Generally, the waves do not follow the local wind directions, thus, implying a mixed sea state. Nevertheless, dimensionless wave heights and periods appears to be quite close to the previously established empirical laws for the wind-driven seas. The results of the wave turbulence theory are applied for estimates of spectral energy fluxes and their correspondence to the energy flux from the turbulent wind pulsations. These estimates are consistent with today’s understanding of wind–wave interaction. It is shown that the main fraction of the wind energy flux is sent to the direct Kolmogorov–Zakharov cascade to high wave frequencies and then dissipates in small amounts. Less than 1% of the wind energy flux is directed to the low frequency band (the so-called inverse Kolmogorov–Zakharov cascade), thus, providing wave energy growth.