Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists

Dean, Robert G.; Dalrymple, Robert A.

doi:10.1142/1232

Cited by 1,076 publications

(803 citation statements)

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“…Le Roux (2007a) showed that the combination of Eqs. (16) and (34) coincides almost exactly with the well-known equation of Miche (1944) over a nearly horizontal bottom and also conforms to laboratory measurements (Dean and Dalrymple, 1991).…”

Section: Theoretical and Empirical Basis Of Equations Used In The Prosupporting

confidence: 87%

“…(21). Working back from the breaker depth to the depth at which the wavelength reaches its deepwater value, Le Roux (2007b) demonstrated that this coincides with graphs in Dean and Dalrymple (1991) and Demirbilek and Vincent (2002).…”

Section: Theoretical and Empirical Basis Of Equations Used In The Prosupporting

confidence: 69%

“…Airy, 1845;Stokes, 1847;1880;Boussinesq, 1871;Korteweg and De Vries, 1895;Dean, 1965;Cokelet, 1977;Miles, 1980;Sakkai and Battjes, 1980;Fenton, 1985;1988;Fenton and McKee, 1990) and published laboratory observations (e.g. Shore Protection Manual, 1984;Dean and Dalrymple, 1991), they have not yet been tested rigorously under field conditions, where complications may arise because of wave interference, different types of marine currents, wave reflection and refraction, as well as irregular bottom topography.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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WAVECALC: an Excel-VBA spreadsheet to model the characteristics of fully developed waves and their influence on bottom sediments in different water depths

et al. 2010

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The generation and growth of waves in deep water is controlled by winds blowing over the sea surface. In fully developed sea states, where winds and waves are in equilibrium, wave parameters may be calculated directly from the wind velocity. We provide an Excel spreadsheet to compute the wave period, length, height and celerity, as well as horizontal and vertical particle velocities for any water depth, bottom slope and distance below the reference water level. The wave profile and propagation can also be visualized for any water depth, modeling the sea surface change from sinusoidal to trochoidal and finally cnoidal profiles into shallow water. Bedload entrainment is estimated under the wave crest and trough, respectively, using the horizontal water particle velocity at the top of the boundary layer.The calculations are programmed in an Excel file called WAVECALC, which is available online to authorized users. Although many of the recently published formulas are based on theoretical arguments, the values agree well with several existing theories and limited field and laboratory observations. WAVECALC is a user-friendly program intended for sedimentologists, coastal 2 engineers and oceanographers, as well as marine ecologists and biologists. It provides a rapid means to calculate many wave characteristics required in coastal and shallow marine studies and can also serve as an educational tool.

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Section: Theoretical and Empirical Basis Of Equations Used In The Prosupporting

confidence: 87%

Section: Theoretical and Empirical Basis Of Equations Used In The Prosupporting

confidence: 69%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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WAVECALC: an Excel-VBA spreadsheet to model the characteristics of fully developed waves and their influence on bottom sediments in different water depths

et al. 2010

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“…The water-surface displacement was estimated for the long-wave component of the pressure transducer data by applying the shallow water wave assumption, which is valid for lowfrequency waves at this site. Surface chop, the higher frequency variations in figure 13, arrived at monitoring site B after the long wave because a low frequency wave travels faster than a higher frequency wave according to linear wave theory (Dean and Dalrymple, 1984). Tidal currents and waves generated by a southerly breeze did not cause net sediment resuspension.…”

Section: March 14-151990mentioning

confidence: 98%

Summary of sediment resuspension monitoring activities, Old Tampa Bay and Hillsborough Bay, Florida, 1988-91

Levesque¹,

Schoellhamer²

1995

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“…Refraction planes are obtained from a linear wave propagation model, considering the wave direction (u) and the wave celerity (C) as dependent variables. In intrinsic coordinates (s and n), such that s is in the wave direction and n normal to it, de®ned as: x scosu 2 nsinu y ssinu 1 ncosu the following expression yields [3]: 2u 2s…”

Section: H 2ymentioning

confidence: 99%

Near-shore sediment dynamics computation under the combined effects of waves and currents

Carmo

Seabra-Santos

2002

Advances in Engineering Software

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An integrated computational structure for non-cohesive sediment-transport and bed-level changes in near-shore regions has been developed. It is basically composed of: (1) three hydrodynamic sub-models; (2) a dynamic equation for the sediment transport (of the Bailardtype); and (3) an extended sediment balance equation. A shallow-water approximation, or Saint-Venant-type model, is utilized for the computation and up-to-date ®eld currents, initially and after each characteristic computational period. A Berkhoff-type wave model allows us to determine the wave characteristics in deep water and intermediate water conditions. These computations make it possible to de®ne a smaller modeling area for a non-linear wave±current model of the Boussinesq-type, including breaking waves, friction effects and improved dispersion wave characteristics. Bed topography is updated after each wave period, or a multiple of this, called computational sedimentary period. Applicability of the computational structure is con®rmed through laboratory experiments. Practical results of a real-world application obtained around the S. Lourenc Ëo forti®cation, Tagus estuary (Portugal), with the intention of preventing the destruction of the Bugio lighthouse, are shown. q

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Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists

Cited by 1,076 publications

References 0 publications

WAVECALC: an Excel-VBA spreadsheet to model the characteristics of fully developed waves and their influence on bottom sediments in different water depths

WAVECALC: an Excel-VBA spreadsheet to model the characteristics of fully developed waves and their influence on bottom sediments in different water depths

Summary of sediment resuspension monitoring activities, Old Tampa Bay and Hillsborough Bay, Florida, 1988-91

Near-shore sediment dynamics computation under the combined effects of waves and currents

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