Vitamin E Delivery to Human Skin by a Rinse-Off Product: Penetration of α-Tocopherol versus Wash-Out Effects of Skin Surface Lipids

Abstract

α-Tocopherol, the major biologically active form of vitamin E, represents a frequently added lipophilic compound of skin care products. Despite its emerging use in rinse-off formulations, little is known on its efficacy with respect to its deposition or its antioxidant potential in human skin. The objective of this study was to investigate whether the single use of an α-tocopherol-enriched rinse-off product provides effective deposition of α-tocopherol on human stratum corneum. To test this, forearm skin of 13 volunteers was washed either with an α-tocopherol-enriched rinse-off product (test product, TP) or with an α-tocopherol-free vehicle control (control product, CP) (contralateral arm) using a standardized wash protocol. Thereafter, skin surface lipids were extracted with pure ethanol after the wash procedure as well as after 24 h. Additionally, one group of volunteers was subjected to irradiation of their forearms with low-dose UVA (8 J/cm²) prior to lipid extraction. Skin lipid extracts were analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography using electrochemical detection for vitamin E and UV detection for squalene (SQ) and squalene monohydroperoxide. The results of this in vivo study demonstrated that (1) while CP treatment lowers, TP treatment strongly increases α-tocopherol levels of skin barrier lipids; (2) increased vitamin E deposition levels were maintained for a period of at least 24 h, and (3) TP treatment significantly inhibited photooxidation of SQ. In conclusion, the use of α-tocopherol-enriched rinse-off products may help to maintain the integrity of the skin barrier by providing protection against photooxidative stress at the level of skin surface lipids.

Dermal carotenoid level and kinetics after topical and systemic administration of antioxidants: Enrichment strategies in a controlled in vivo study

“…On the skin surface, the sweat and sebum spread out efficiently, and subsequently penetrate back into the skin. This effect was observed for vitamin E by Thiele et al [62] and has been proposed for carotenoids [29].…”

Vitamins and photoaging: Do scientific data support their use?

“…What is known is that formulations containing 0.2% a-tocopherol do lead to increased levels of vitamin E in the stratum corneum and decreased lipid peroxidation in vivo. 97 In addition, vitamin C should be included in any formulation containing vitamin E, not only for its contribution to the replenishment of active vitamin E, but also for its ability to stabilize vitamin E in formulation against UVA degradation. 98 As with oral formulations, good evidence exists suggesting that the use of topical a-tocopherol combined with L-ascorbic acid before UV irradiation decreases erythema, cytokine production, thymine dimer formation, and p53 up-regulation.…”

Antioxidant effect of 4-nerolidylcatechol and α-tocopherol in erythrocyte ghost membranes and phospholipid bilayers

“…In response to UVB radiation in the skin of hairless mice, MMP-2 and -9 were inhibited in the presence of 4-NC (5). Recently, the single application of a topical α-tocopherol-enriched rinse-off product led to significantly increased levels of vitamin E in the stratum corneum, and contributed to the protection of human skin against lipid peroxidation in vivo (36). These findings suggest that 4-NC could be used in topical formulations for treatment of human melanomas or as a topical agent to protect the skin from sunlight irradiation.…”