Velocity field in a steady breaker

Battjes, J.A.; Sakai, Takayuki

doi:10.1017/s0022112081002449

Cited by 61 publications

(26 citation statements)

References 4 publications

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“…As the waves break, k −3 shifts to k −5/3 because two-dimensionality of the flow is now complemented by 3D turbulent small scales formed by breaking events, and energy is quickly dissipated following the cascade process. The transition from steeper slopes to the standard Kolmogorov K41 slope is a well-known feature of breaking waves, with the transition in energy spectrum slopes from −3 (2D turbulence) to −5/3 (fully developed 3D turbulence) noted by a number of authors (Lemmin et al 1974;Battjes & Sakai 1981;Hattori & Aono 1985;Schlicke 2001) is predicted here, too. In Battjes & Sakai (1981), the slopes were found to scale with k −3 near the breaking point and with −5/3 further downstream, because the waves were spilling breakers.…”

Section: Energy Spectrasupporting

confidence: 63%

Turbulence structure and interaction with steep breaking waves

Lakehal¹,

Liovic²

2011

J. Fluid Mech.

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Large-eddy and interface simulation using an interface tracking-based multi-fluid flow solver is conducted to investigate the breaking of steep water waves on a beach of constant bed slope. The present investigation focuses mainly on the 'weak plunger' breaking wave type and provides a detailed analysis of the two-way interaction between the mean fluid flow and the sub-modal motions, encompassing wave dynamics and turbulence. The flow is analysed from two points of views: mean to sub-modal exchange, and wave to turbulence interaction within the sub-modal range. Wave growth and propagation are due to energy transfer from the mean flow to the waves, and transport of mean momentum by these waves. The vigorous downwellingupwelling patterns developing at the head and tail of each breaker are shown to generate both negative-and positive-signed energy exchange contributions in the thin sublayer underneath the water surface. The details of these exchange mechanisms are thoroughly discussed in this paper, together with the interplay between threedimensional small-scale breaking associated with turbulence and the dominant twodimensional wave motion. A conditional zonal analysis is proposed for the first time to understand the transient mechanisms of turbulent kinetic energy production, decay, diffusion and transport and their dependence and/or impact on surface wrinkling over the entire breaking process. The simulations provide a thorough picture of airliquid coherent structures that develop over the breaking process, and link them to the transient mechanisms responsible for their local incidence.

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Section: Energy Spectrasupporting

confidence: 63%

Turbulence structure and interaction with steep breaking waves

Lakehal¹,

Liovic²

2011

J. Fluid Mech.

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“…The vertical thickness of the wake increased according to the square root of the distance behind the wave. Battjes and Sakai (1981) found that the region downstream of the breaker has a high degree of selfsimilarity in the mean velocity, turbulence intensity and shear layer, similar to a wake.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 94%

“…Far away from the breaker, the relation suggests an inversion of the relationship between the fluctuating components, especially near the surface. Several researchers used a submerged hydrofoil to generate spilling-type breakers (Duncan, 1981;Battjes and Sakai, 1981). Duncan (1981) used a towed hydrofoil and found that the breaking produced a shearing force along the forward face of the wave.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Turbulence in the swash and surf zones: a review

Longo

Petti

Losada

2002

Coastal Engineering

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This paper reviews mainly conceptual models and experimental work, in the field and in the laboratory, dedicated during the last decades to studying turbulence of breaking waves and bores moving in very shallow water and in the swash zone. The phenomena associated with vorticity and turbulence structures measured are summarised, including the measurement techniques and the laboratory generation of breaking waves or of flow fields sharing several characteristics with breaking waves. The effect of air entrapment during breaking is discussed. The limits of the present knowledge, especially in modelling a two-or three-phase system, with air and sediment entrapped at high turbulence level, and perspectives of future research are discussed. D

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“…the jump height Froude number, with u fit c 1:1=Fr 2 Dh being the best fit to the experimental measurements. This trend indicates that, for a constant speed of the fast stream, the thinner the mass of stag nant water resting on the shear layer, the slower the large vortices move.…”

Section: Convective Velocity Of the Large Eddiesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Velocity fields in steady breakers have been obtained experi mentally by several authors [26,25,2,4,3,9,17,16]. However, in highly aerated regions, difficulties to obtain precise measurements arise.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Dynamics of large turbulent structures in a steady breaker

Rodríguez-Rodríguez

Marugán-Cruz

Aliseda

et al. 2011

Experimental Thermal and Fluid Science

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a b s t r a c tThe flow near the leading edge of a steady breaker has been studied experimentally using Bubble Image Velocimetry (BIV) with the aim of characterizing the dynamics of the large eddies responsible for air entrainment. It is well reported in the literature, and confirmed by our measurements of the instanta neous velocity field, that this flow shares some important features with the turbulent shear layer formed between two parallel semi infinite streams with different velocities. Namely, the formation of a periodic array of coherent vortices, the constant convective velocity of those vortices, the linear relation between their size and their downstream position and the self similar structure of both mean velocity profiles and Reynolds shear stresses. Nonetheless, important differences exists between the dynamics of the large eddies in a steady breaker and those in a free shear layer. Particularly, the convective velocity of these large structures is slower in a steady breaker and, consistent with this, their growth rates are larger. A physical interpretation of these differences is provided together with a discussion of their implications. To support our measurements and conclusions, we present a careful analysis of the accuracy of the BIV technique in turbulent flows with large bubbles.

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Velocity field in a steady breaker

Cited by 61 publications

References 4 publications

Turbulence structure and interaction with steep breaking waves

Turbulence structure and interaction with steep breaking waves

Turbulence in the swash and surf zones: a review

Dynamics of large turbulent structures in a steady breaker

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