Vegetable Butters and Oils as Therapeutically and Cosmetically Active Ingredients for Dermal Use: A Review of Clinical Studies

Abstract

While the chemical composition of vegetable butters and oils has been studied in detail, there is limited knowledge about their mechanisms of action after application on the skin. To understand their dermal effects better, 27 clinical studies evaluating 17 vegetable oils (almond, argan, avocado, borage, coconut, evening primrose, kukui, marula, mustard, neem, olive, rapeseed, sacha inchi, safflower, shea butter, soybean and sunflower oils) were reviewed in this research. The reviewed studies focused on non-affected skin, infant skin, psoriasis, xerosis, UVB-induced erythema, atopic dermatitis, molluscum contagiosum, tungiasis, scars, striae and striae gravidarum. We conclude that in inflammation-affected skin, vegetable oils with a high content of oleic acid, together with the lack of or a low linoleic acid content, may cause additional structural damage of the stratum corneum, while oils high in linoleic acid and saturated fatty acids may express positive effects. Non-affected skin, in contrast, may not react negatively to oils high in oleic acid. However, the frequency and duration of an oil’s use must be considered an important factor that may accelerate or enhance the negative effects on the skin’s structural integrity.

Management of patients with acute radiation dermatitis. Current trends and clinical examples

“…Кроме того, продукты для местного применения обладают более высокой биодоступностью и имеют локальный эффект, так необходимый в курации пациентов с острыми лучевыми повреждениями. Предыдущие исследования растительных масел показали, что масла миндаля, жожоба, сои и авокадо при местном применении в основном остаются на поверхности кожи, не проникая глубоко в верхние слои рогового слоя [21]. Хотя триглицериды не проникают в роговой слой кожи, глицерин способствует гидратации последнего.…”

Evaluation of the Phytochemistry–Therapeutic Activity Relationship for Grape Seeds Oil

“…According to its chemical composition, GSO is mostly made up of triglycerides (usually 99%) and unsaponifiable materials (typically 1%). Fatty acids (FAs) and glycerol are esterified to form triglycerides [ 2 ]. FAs are divided into saturated, mono-, and polyunsaturated groups based according to how many double bonds they possess, which determines how susceptible they are to challenges brought on by light, heat, or oxygen [ 3 ].…”

“…There is still a lack of scientific data on the precise mechanisms involved and the range of cutaneous effects. Even so, significant strides have been achieved recently in the field of clinical research, and mounting data support the scientifically-based use of vegetable oils in domains including cosmetic science, medicine, and pharmacy [ 2 ].…”

“…They also have moisturizing, regenerative, anti-wrinkle, and photoprotective effects. Although they are essential structural elements of vegetable oils, unsaponifiable chemicals’ effects on the skin have not been extensively studied in clinical investigations [ 2 ]. Similarly to other plant-based foods, the antioxidant activity of grape seed oil is closely correlated with the amount of vitamin E [ 16 , 17 ], the concentration of active compounds from fruits and seeds, respectively from other parts of the plant, varying according to numerous factors, as follows: the cultivation area, the rheological properties of the soil, the climatic characteristics, the stage of maturation/ripening of different parts of the plant, the method of harvesting/preserving plant material until the determinations/analysis, etc.…”

Vegetable butters and oils: scientific evidence for cosmetic and therapeutic use

“…Recent evidence shows that in inflammation-affected skin, oils high in oleic acid, together with the lack of or low linoleic acid, cause additional stratum corneum damage, while oils high in linoleic acid and saturated fatty acids express positive effects. Non-affected skin is generally resistant to the damaging potential of oils high in oleic acid 4 .…”