Variability of sandbar morphometrics over three seasonal cycles on a single-barred beach

Vidal-Ruiz, Jesús Adrián; Alegría-Arzaburu, Amaia Ruíz de

doi:10.1016/j.geomorph.2019.02.034

Cited by 24 publications

(16 citation statements)

References 44 publications

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“…Meanwhile, frequent changes in wave intensity may exert minor bar displacements reflecting its relative stability in the nearshore zone [19]. In the last decades the seasonal sandbar migration has been studied using in situ measurements and numerical modeling in [15,[20][21][22][23][24][25]. Despite that, the nearshore morphological evolution on seasonal time scales is still poorly understood since field observations have been limited due to difficulties and expense of working in nearshore environments [15,23].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Influence of Wave Climate on Intra and Inter-Annual Nearshore Bar Dynamics for a Sandy Beach

et al. 2021

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The study investigates cross-shore outer sand bar dynamics in an open-coast non-tidal beach at the Bulgarian Black Sea due to wave climate. On seasonal to short-term (1–2 years) time scale, monthly field measurements of the outer bar profiles were related to respective modeled nearshore wave data. Hereby, seaward-shoreward bar migration was examined depending on the wave forcing, wave non-linearity, wave transformation scenarios, storms and direction of wave incidence. Analysis revealed that intra-annually highly non-linear waves were responsible for outer bar displacement, while the direction of migration depended on wave period, duration of conditions with wave steepness >0.04, angle of approach and total duration of storms. Short-term bar evolution was mainly governed by wave height and storms’ parameters as the angle of approach and duration. The correlation between the outer bar location and wave height annual variations initiated the first for the explored Black Sea region examination of possible connection between wave height’s temporal fluctuations and the variability of climatic indices the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO), the Atlantic Multi-decadal Oscillation (AMO), the East Atlantic Oscillation (EA), the Arctic Oscillation (AO), the East Atlantic-Western Russia (EA/WR) and the Scandinavian (SCAND) patterns. According to the results the inter-annual outer bar location may vary depending on periods of maximum annual wave fluctuations, which in turn predominantly depend on indices the EA (4–5, 10–11, 20–30 years), the EA/WR (2–4, 9–13 years) and the NAO (15 years).

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Influence of Wave Climate on Intra and Inter-Annual Nearshore Bar Dynamics for a Sandy Beach

et al. 2021

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“…According to the classification of onshore sandbar migration modes by Vidal‐Ruiz and Ruiz de Alegría‐Arzaburu (2019, 2020), the cases used in this study can be generally classified as mode I (section 2.4). The other identified modes (modes II–IV) consist of compounds of onshore and offshore sandbar migrations.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Using long‐term measurements, Vidal‐Ruiz and Ruiz de Alegría‐Arzaburu (2019, 2020) identified different modes of onshore sandbar migrations (modes I–IV) based on the cumulative wave energy and sandbar morphometric properties. The onshore sandbar migration cases used in the current study can be generally classified under mode I, where the sandbar is moving onshore under low‐energetic conditions (< 50 kW m −1 ) and subsequently weld with the shoreline.…”

Section: Theory and Methodologymentioning

confidence: 99%

On the predictive skill of morphodynamic models for onshore sandbar migration

Hewageegana

Canestrelli

2021

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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A simplified process‐based approach for evaluating onshore sandbar migration is presented in this study. This approach takes wave‐averaged parameters as input and computes sediment transport processes using a reconstructed intra‐wave orbital velocity signal. The proposed method guarantees good predictive skills for multiple onshore sandbar migration cases without an ad hoc calibration for each scenario. The study differs from previous onshore sandbar migration models, where calibration and testing are performed on just one or few events, and model assessment for uncalibrated realizations is rarely carried out. The present version of the model only addresses onshore sandbar migrations. For the onshore migration cases analyzed, the model has better predictive skills than state‐of‐the‐art morphodynamic models (XBeach and Unibest‐TC).

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“…Once the island undergoes erosion at times followed by accretion in subsequent periods, which shows much more similarities with the report of SPARRSO (1987SPARRSO ( , 1993 and findings of Pramanik (1983,1988); and Pramanik et al (1981) in some other coastal islands of Bangladesh. Some recent studies suggest such inward and outward movement may be because of seasonal to annual dynamics of the sandbar morphology (Tătui et al, 2016;Vidal-Ruiz & De Alegría-arzaburu, 2019;Tătui & Constantin, 2020).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Morphological changes of a developing sandbar along the shoreline of Sonadia Island, Bangladesh between 1972 and 2006 using remote sensing

Hoque

Chowdhury

et al. 2021

Geology, Ecology, and Landscapes

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In a dynamic coastal environment, the morphology of a sandbar is anticipated to change regularly, particularly when there is a large annual sediment supply. The study explored the nature and magnitude of a developing sandbar's morphological changes between 1972 and 2006 in Sonadia Island, Bangladesh, using five different satellite images. The sandbar's changes across the shoreline were calculated using field survey data and manual-drawing outlines of overlaid maps. The study revealed continuous and rapid morphological changes of the sandbar along the Island's shoreline. The net annual rate of shoreline displacement ranges between 3.94 m and 7.79 m during the period. These might directly result from the Island being exposed to huge wave and tidal action and excessive sediment supply around the Island. Transect 3 represents the sandbar's head and appears to be the most active zone with the most significant annual shoreline displacement of 22.00 m. The sandbar's far end around Transect 7 is more stable with a yearly shoreline displacement of 0.50 m. Changes were more drastic between 1999 and 2006 than between 1972 and 1999. These rapid changes after 1999 could indicate that the sandbar is becoming increasingly vulnerable to anthropogenic changes and the adverse effects of sea-level rise.

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Variability of sandbar morphometrics over three seasonal cycles on a single-barred beach

Cited by 24 publications

References 44 publications

Influence of Wave Climate on Intra and Inter-Annual Nearshore Bar Dynamics for a Sandy Beach

Influence of Wave Climate on Intra and Inter-Annual Nearshore Bar Dynamics for a Sandy Beach

On the predictive skill of morphodynamic models for onshore sandbar migration

Morphological changes of a developing sandbar along the shoreline of Sonadia Island, Bangladesh between 1972 and 2006 using remote sensing

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