Utility of video analysis and expert modelling for technique development in novice sport climbers: A randomized controlled study

Abstract

Sport climbing is a multifaceted sport that also requires appropriate techniques to optimize movements. As augmented feedback is known to facilitate motor learning, we investigated the utility of adding video analysis and expert modelling to standardized verbal feedback for the acquisition of three climbing-specific techniques (drop knee, heel hook and high step). Twenty-six novice climbers (12 women) completed two testing sessions before and after a training intervention that consisted of three coached climbing sessions targeting the three techniques. Participants were randomly assigned to a control group, which solely received standardized verbal feedback or an experimental group that additionally received standardized video analysis and expert modelling using the Dartfish tablet application. Video recordings were subsequently evaluated by two climbing experts on a 7-point scale. The expert scores were higher in the experimental than in the control group for the high step (causal total effect (CTE) 0.38, 95% confidence interval (CI) [0.06, 0.68]). Improvements for the drop knee (CTE = 0.12, 95% CI [−0.24, 0.48]) and heel hook (CTE = −0.05, 95% CI [−0.42, 0.31]) were similar in both groups. For the drop knee, we, however, observed a positive causal direct effect (CDE = 0.38, 95% CI [0.07, 0.68]), which was comparable to that observed for the high step but also a negative causal mediator effect via the perceived difficulty (CME = −0.26, 95% CI [−0.51, −0.04]). Compared to verbal feedback solely, the addition of video analysis and expert modelling might facilitate the acquisition of certain climbing techniques, such as high step, in novice climbers.

Painfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing

“…Due to the change in the route setting, the training load has changed in terms of what muscles and joints are taking most of the load. 22 …”