Ultraviolet Filters for Cosmetic Applications

Abstract

Sunscreens reduce the occurrence risk of skin disorders such as sunburn, skin aging, and cancer through their ability to absorb, reflect, and scatter ultraviolet (UV) radiation. This review provides an overview of UV filters as active ingredients of sunscreen products, emphasizing their classification and structural characteristics. Their photostability, mechanism of action of ultraviolet radiation absorption, optical properties, and regulatory status are discussed based on their chemical structure. The main classes of organic UV filters presented include aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives, benzophenones, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, triazines, benzimidazole derivatives, and benzotriazole derivatives. The pursuit of new UV filters through research is crucial in advancing sunscreen technology and ensuring the availability of effective and safe options for sun protection.

Photochemical and Oxidative Degradation of Chamazulene Contained in Artemisia, Matricaria and Achillea Essential Oils and Setup of Protection Strategies

“…Consistent with this conclusion, CA could be significantly spared by antioxidants like hydroxytyrosol and α-tocopherol, yet particularly by TEMPO, which specifically acts by exploiting the formation of HOO• radicals [18]. Sunscreens of common use in cosmetics [42] i.e. octyl methoxycinnamate and particularly Tinosorb® S could also affectively spare CA photodegradation.…”

“…Experiments in the presence of sunscreens also offered interesting observations (Table 4). Three molecules were selected on the basis of their frequent occurrence in cosmetic products [41,42], and were comparatively tested: Tinosorb® S, a broad spectrum UVB-UVA filter (290-370 nm) with maxima of absorption at 310 and 350 nm, octocrylene, a UVB filter reaching the short-wavelenght UVA region (280-330 nm, λmax 307 nm), and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) with similar coverage (280-330 nm, λmax 311 nm) [43][44][45].…”

A Survey of UV Filters Used in Sunscreen Cosmetics

“…It loses between 50% and 60% of its protective efficacy after one hour of exposure to UV radiation [40]. Avobenzone undergoes keto-enol tautomerism, and its keto form can easily photodegrade into 4-tert-butyl benzoic acid and 4-methoxy benzoic acid, which are responsible for its photoallergic and phototoxic reactions [11,41].…”

“…Tinosrob S (BEMT) is broad-spectrum filter (UVA and UVB). In turn, the most popular UVB filters include EHT, EHS, OC, EHMC, and PBSA [10,11,19].…”

“…UV filters can be organic agents, often called "chemical", that can absorb UV rays and release thermal energy, or inorganic (mineral) agents, sometimes called "physical", that scatter and reflect UV rays. Organic filters can be divided into the following groups of derivatives: para-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives, benzylidenecamphor derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzimidazole and benzotriazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, and various others, such as Polysilicone-15 [11]. The presence of chromophores with a conjugated system of πbonds in their molecules is typical for organic filters, most often an aromatic ring bonded to a carbonyl group or connected by a carbon-carbon double bond [11].…”