Traditions and Inovations of Yarns in Lithuanian Folk Fabrics (19th Century)

Abstract

It is actually for history of textile technologies and Lithuanian culture heritage to investigate deeply peculiarities of manufacturing and appearance of folk textile, to establish local and global tendencies of their distribution. This investigation seeks to discover alternation of home weaving traditions establishing raw material of yarns, types of yarn structure and features of threads colours in authentic folk fabrics used in Lithuanian villages in the 19^th century in peasants clothing and showing yarns types territorial distribution in Lithuanian regions Žemaitija and Aukštaitija. It was investigated 468 pieces of clothing of this period from the album saved in National M. K. Čiurlionis Museum of Art. It is unexpected that cotton yarns are very common in warp of hand made clothing fabrics at the end of the 19^th century. Cotton yarns replaced flax and wool in warp. It was established that plied yarns dominate in warp and plain yarns – in weft. Fancy dyed, mouline, melange and yarns with multiplex winding were identificated in the fabrics. Also it was innovative to found the metallic thread in weft of two examples of the fabrics. Frequency of colours distribution was established analyzing colours of yarns. The analysis of territorial distribution of fancy yarns types showed the tendency to spread the novelties of yarns and threads in traditional textile from the West part of the country.<p>DOI: <a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.5755/j01.ms.19.2.4436">http://dx.doi.org/10.5755/j01.ms.19.2.4436</a></p

Structure and performance of color blended rotor spun yarn produced by a novel frame with asynchronous feed rollers

“…In this paper, not only blending yarns with different blending ratios were produced and tested, but also fancy yarns including slub yarn, period melange yarn, gradient melange yarn, and color pointed melange yarn. 14…”

“…In this paper, not only blending yarns with different blending ratios were produced and tested, but also fancy yarns including slub yarn, period melange yarn, gradient melange yarn, and color pointed melange yarn. 14 Table 1 shows the specifications of the raw materials and test conditions. Sixty-six types of color yarns were produced with three basic colored slivers (magenta, yellow, and cyan).…”

Comparative Analysis of Western Ukrainian and Lithuanian Folk Towels

“…Therefore, researchers from various branches of traditional art have paid attention to them within the scope of their research. We can single out general works in which towels were considered part of the traditional ethnographic textiles of the entire nation: Sydorovych [1], Studenets [2], Nykorak [3], Balčikonis [4], Savoniakaitė [5], Nenartavičiūtė [6], and its separate ethnographic groups: Nykorak [7] -Hutsul ethnographic region (Ukraine), Oliinyk [8] -Pokuttia ethnographic region (Ukraine), Boriak [9] -Podillia ethnographic region (Ukraine), Nėnienė [10] -Zanavykai ethnographic region (Lithuania), Benedikienė [11] -Dzūkija ethnographic region (Lithuania). In a separate group, we see publications on the semantics and function of traditional towels in the context of ritual practices (Andrushko [12], Herus [13]).…”

Double-layer Fabrics with Folk Motives. Experimental and Theoretical Study of their Characteristics

“…They prepared plans of the weave and manufactured 31 reconstructions of bedspreads, towels, tablecloths etc., woven by hand and an industrial weaving loom. Kumpikaitė, Ragaišienė and Nėnienė [11] investigated the weaves and patterns of Lithuanian folk skirts and home textile fabrics, as well as their chronological and territorial distribution, the use of colour threads entific principles of classification. Thus Woods [15] noticed that every ornament in all spheres of human life is composed according to a particular symmetry law.…”