Topical dexpanthenol effects on physiological parameters of the stratum corneum by Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

Abstract

BackgroundTopical use of dexpanthenol presents well‐established moisturizing properties and maintenance and repair of the skin barrier function, however, its exact action mechanisms are not completely elucidated. In this context, Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy is an optical method that enables non‐invasive and non‐destructive in vivo analysis with the sensitive acquisition of molecular changes in different skin layers. Herein, the aim was to evaluate the effects of topical dexpanthenol on the components and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC).Materials and methodsTen healthy female subjects underwent skin evaluation by means of a Confocal Raman Spectrometer Skin Analyzer 3510. Spectral data were obtained from the skin of the anterior forearm region, before and 2 h after applying a cosmetic formulation containing or not containing 5% dexpanthenol.ResultsSemiquantitative analysis of the natural moisturizing factor showed a significant decrease in content after 2 h of topical dexpanthenol application, while the analysis of the lamellar organization of intercellular lipids and the secondary structure of keratin showed a significant increase in hexagonal organization of lipids at the first half of the SC and a significant increase in β‐pleated sheet conformation of keratin.ConclusionEffects of topical dexpanthenol on SC suggest a contribution in increasing fluidity of both lipidic and protein components of the SC and are compatible with dexpanthenol activity in maintaining adequate physiological conditions and preventing transepidermal water loss. This study also contributes to the elucidation of action mechanisms and other concurrent biochemical processes.

In vivo permeation study of nanoencapsulated cannabidiol through the human skin by confocal Raman spectroscopy

“…This technique has been used to analyze physiological parameters of the skin, such as cutaneous hydration 17 , detection of Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs) at the dermis 18 and collagen glycation 19 , and even for cancer detection 20 . Furthermore, Confocal Raman Spectroscopy is a non-invasive method that can be used in vivo, providing high spatial resolution in microns (µm) and the ability to determine the permeation profile of formulations in different skin layers 21 .…”