Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves

Mei, Chiang C.; Stiassnie, Michael; Yue, Dick K. P.

doi:10.1142/10212

Cited by 226 publications

(499 citation statements)

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“…Expression (3.15) shows that the longshore component of k n keeps constant over straight and parallel iso-baths. That is an extension to HA waves of Snell's law for gravity waves (Mei et al 2005). Substitution of (3.15) into the eikonal equation (3.12) and further integration finally yield the phase function…”

Section: Solution For Cylindrical Topographymentioning

confidence: 94%

“…a conservation equation (Mei et al 2005). Expression (3.11) proves that the MSEHA (2.19) conserves the energy flux over a 2HD slowly varying bottom.…”

Section: Conservation Of Energymentioning

confidence: 94%

“…Re {·} denotes the real part and will be omitted in the following for the sake of brevity. Results for generic time-dependent disturbances can be found by Fourier superposition of the harmonic solution Φ (Mei et al 2005;Sammarco et al 2013). Using (2.4), the system (2.1)-(2.3) becomes…”

Section: Model Equationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Due to the large difference between gravity and HA wave propagation speed in water, the gravity mode n = 0 is hardly influenced by compressibility (Stiassnie 2010). Numerous analytical and numerical models for the gravity mode propagation over slowly varying bottom are already available in the literature (e.g Mei et al 2005;Massel 2013) and will not be discussed further. Here we shall focus on the HA modes n 1 of (2.14).…”

Section: Model Equationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The eikonal equation (3.8) can be solved numerically to obtain S (0) n for given h( x), see Dingemans (1997); Mei et al (2005). Once the phase function is known, then the amplitude A (0) n can be found by solving the transport equation (3.9), so that the spatial potential φ n (3.3) is determined with an error O( ), for 1.…”

Section: General Solutionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Hydro-acoustic frequencies of the weakly compressible mild-slope equation

Renzi

2016

J. Fluid Mech.

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This draft was prepared using the LaTeX style file belonging to the Journal We present a novel analytical solution for hydro-acoustic waves in a weakly compressible fluid over a slowly varying bottom. Application of a multiple-scale perturbation technique and matched asymptotic analysis leads to a uniform analytical solution of the depthaveraged governing equations in three dimensions. We show that the slow depth variation plays a leading-order effect on the evolution of the normal mode amplitude and direction. This dynamics is much richer than the two-dimensional limit analysed in previous studies.For tsunamigenic disturbances, we show that the hydro-acoustic wave field is made up by longshore trapped and offshore propagating components, which were not explicated in previous work. For a plane beach, we find an exact analytical solution of the model equation in terms of integrals of Bessel functions. Our model offers a physical insight into the evolution of hydro-acoustic waves of interest for the design of tsunami early warning systems.

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Section: Solution For Cylindrical Topographymentioning

confidence: 94%

“…a conservation equation (Mei et al 2005). Expression (3.11) proves that the MSEHA (2.19) conserves the energy flux over a 2HD slowly varying bottom.…”

Section: Conservation Of Energymentioning

confidence: 94%

Section: Model Equationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Model Equationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: General Solutionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Hydro-acoustic frequencies of the weakly compressible mild-slope equation

Renzi

2016

J. Fluid Mech.

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Dynamics of Gravity Currents in the Presence of Surface Waves

2018

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The gravity current dynamics in the presence of regular surface waves is investigated experimentally. The aim is to determine the influence of the wave‐induced velocity field on gravity current kinematic parameters and on the concentration distribution. In the presence of surface waves, the front shows a pulsating behavior while periodic oscillations are observed at the interface between lighter and denser fluids. The dynamics of such processes is related to the wave parameters. Present results confirm that the lock‐exchange generated front velocity is strongly influenced by the oscillatory motion and it may be increased or decreased depending on the Lagrangian mass transport induced by the surface waves. Compared to the propagation in the absence of waves, the dynamics of the concentration field is governed by an enhancement of mixing process due to the orbital motion.

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Surface Wave Dynamics in Delaware Bay and Its Adjacent Coastal Shelf

et al. 2017

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This study presents a broad overview of surface gravity wave dynamics in Delaware Bay and the adjacent continental shelf by employing the wave model Simulating Waves Nearshore one‐way coupled to the ocean model Regional Ocean Modeling System for a period from 2006 to 2012. The distributions of simulated wave statistics agree well with observations obtained from three wave buoys located on the shelf, in the bay near the open ocean, and about 35 km up the bay. A partitioning analysis to separate the two‐dimensional wave height spectrum into wind‐forced and swell parts reveals that waves on the shelf are predominantly remotely generated swell. Bathymetric refraction shelters the bay from energetic open ocean waves, which is supported by an idealized ray tracing analysis. Waves near the bay entrance are also refracted by oblique tidal currents, whose refraction characteristics critically depend on the detailed spatial distributions of the currents. Opposing tidal currents, flowing against the wave propagation direction, focus wave energy outside the bay entrance and in the deeper bay channels, where currents are relatively strong. A spectral partitioning analysis for waves in the bay indicates that less energetic wave fields are likely not directly forced by the wind. More energetic waves, on the other hand, are dominantly driven by winds and the wave response in the bay depends on the fetch‐setting wind direction. Our results for wind‐driven waves in the bay are consistent with previous fetch‐limited observations, but we find a systematic bias between wind and wave directions due to bathymetric refraction.

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Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves

Cited by 226 publications

References 0 publications

Hydro-acoustic frequencies of the weakly compressible mild-slope equation

Hydro-acoustic frequencies of the weakly compressible mild-slope equation

Dynamics of Gravity Currents in the Presence of Surface Waves

Surface Wave Dynamics in Delaware Bay and Its Adjacent Coastal Shelf

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