The UIAA Medical Commission Injury Classification for Mountaineering and Climbing Sports

Schöffl, Volker; Morrison, Alistair; Hefti, Urs; Ullrich, Schwarz; Küpper, Thomas

doi:10.1016/j.wem.2010.11.008

Cited by 87 publications

(130 citation statements)

References 33 publications

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“…Killian et al [75] surveyed 100 climbers through a questionnaire on feet conditions. 73 were male, 27 female, the mean climbing level was 5.109 US (7.0 UIAA [16] ). 81% of the climber`s complaint about discomfort through the climbing shoes.…”

Section: Overuse Injuries and Chronic Con-ditionsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Schöffl et al [78] evaluated 30 high level male sport climbers for chronic foot deformations. Every climber was at least climbing on a UIAA 9.0 level [mean climbing level 9.7 (UIAA MedCom metric scale [82] )] and climbing more than 5 years (mean climbing years 12.8 years). Training hours per wk were a mean 12.3 h, which refers to roughly 10 h per wk within the small climbing shoes.…”

Section: Overuse Injuries and Chronic Con-ditionsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…While alpine climbing has its inherent dangers, sport, indoor and competition climbing showed a minor injury risk [1][2][3][4][5][6][7][8][9][10][11][12][13][14][15] . Also, most of the injuries occurring are of minor severity and often due to overuse [1,3,16] . In rock climbing mostly only the hands and feet are used to be holding onto the rock or artificial climbing wall; thus placing extreme forces on the distal extremities [9,13, .…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…High ability climbers experience more foot deformities and injuries compared to climbers of lower ability due to the common practice of wearing climbing shoes sized smaller than normal street wear shoes (Figures 3 and 4A, B, C) [75,77,78] . Schöffl et al [78] reported about an average shoe seize difference between normal shoes and climbing shoes of 2.3 ± 0.73 continental seizes in high ability rock climbers [mean climbing level 9.7 (UIAA MedCom metric scale [82] )]. Killian et al [75] reported about typically 1 to 2 seizes reduction (mean 1.699) in average climbers [mean climbing level 7.0 (UIAA MedCom metric scale [82] )].…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Schöffl et al [78] reported about an average shoe seize difference between normal shoes and climbing shoes of 2.3 ± 0.73 continental seizes in high ability rock climbers [mean climbing level 9.7 (UIAA MedCom metric scale [82] )]. Killian et al [75] reported about typically 1 to 2 seizes reduction (mean 1.699) in average climbers [mean climbing level 7.0 (UIAA MedCom metric scale [82] )]. 80%-90% of the climbers reported [75,78] of suffering pain while using their climbing shoes, and that they accept to suffer this discomfort for improved performance [78] .…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

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Feet injuries in rock climbers

Schöffl

Küpper²

2013

WJO

Self Cite

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While injuries of the upper extremity are widely discussed in rock climbers, reports about the lower extremity are rare. Nevertheless almost 50 percent of acute injuries involve the leg and feet. Acute injuries are either caused by ground falls or rock hit trauma during a fall. Most frequently strains, contusions and fractures of the calcaneus and talus. More rare injuries, as e.g. , osteochondral lesions of the talus demand a highly specialized care and case presentations with combined iliac crest graft and matrix associated autologous chondrocyte transplantation are given in this review. The chronic use of tight climbing shoes leads to overstrain injuries also. As the tight fit of the shoes changes the biomechanics of the foot an increased stress load is applied to the fore-foot. Thus chronic conditions as subungual hematoma, callosity and pain resolve. Also a high incidence of hallux valgus and hallux rigidus is described.© 2013 Baishideng. All rights reserved. Key words: Rock climbing; Sport climbing; Feet injuries; Hallux valgus; Overstrain injuriesCore tip: While injuries of the upper extremity are widely discussed in rock climbers, reports about the lower extremity are rare. Nevertheless almost 50 percent of acute injuries involve the leg and feet and most frequently are strains, contusions and fractures of the calcaneus and talus. The chronic use of tight climbing shoes leads to overstrain injuries also. As the tight fit of the shoes changes the biomechanics of the foot an increased stress load is applied to the fore-foot. Thus chronic conditions as subungual hematoma, callosity and pain resolve. Also a high incidence of hallux valgus and hallux rigidus is described.

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Section: Overuse Injuries and Chronic Con-ditionsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Overuse Injuries and Chronic Con-ditionsmentioning

confidence: 99%