The SWAN model used to study wave evolution in a flume

Wood, Deborah J.; Muttray, Markus; Oumeraci, Hocine

doi:10.1016/s0029-8018(00)00033-0

Cited by 21 publications

(8 citation statements)

References 3 publications

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“…This value 0.8 is not the default. However, it is within the range proposed by Battjes and Stive (1985) and close to the values 0.78 of Wood et al (2001). In fact, this value 0.8 was chosen for closer results to the measurements after some trial and error tests.…”

Section: Model Setupsupporting

confidence: 62%

Evolution of waves and currents over a submerged laboratory shoal

Choi

Lim

Lee

et al. 2009

Coastal Engineering

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Section: Model Setupsupporting

confidence: 62%

Evolution of waves and currents over a submerged laboratory shoal

Choi

Lim

Lee

et al. 2009

Coastal Engineering

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“…SWAN simulations accounted for non-linear triad wavewave interactions, as they are rather important in shallow coastal areas (Booij et al, 1999;Holthuijsen, 2007), for bottom friction dissipation using the default variable JONSWAP expression according to Hasselmann et al (1973) and for breaking dissipation according to the default bore-based model of Battjes and Janssen (1978). A depth-induced wave breaking parameter (γ) of 0.78 was chosen, as this is a commonly accepted value of γ (Ranasinghe et al, 2004), and was verified by dedicated tests on SWAN performance by Wood et al (2001).…”

Section: Nearshore Wave Propagationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Extreme erosion on high-energy embayed beaches: Influence of megarips and storm grouping

2012

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a b s t r a c tMegarips have long been recognised as an important, yet poorly documented, mechanism of beach erosion on high-energy embayed beaches. The persistence and cumulative effect of megarips during storm groups, are described from three embayed beaches (Arrifana, Mt. Clérigo and Amoreira) exposed to high-energy wave conditions in the mesotidal, bedrock-dominated southwestern coast of Portugal. Morphological changes, determined by topographic monitoring and supplemented by interpretation of digital imagery over two years, revealed the development of storm-induced megarips, which exerted a major influence on beach erosion. Differences in megarip influence within and between beaches are related to embayment geometry and orientation, which significantly influence the nearshore wave field. Rip location is topographically controlled, being determined by alongshore variations in breaking wave height and obliquity, along with interaction of wave-driven circulation patterns and embayment nearshore topography. Moderate beach sand loss during individual storms was linked to the development of megarips with associated rip-neck and feeder channels. Extreme erosion, however, occurred when megarips and feeder channels persisted during successive storms, promoting continued erosion and seaward sediment export. Observations show that once initiated, megarip channels persist for several months and continue to act as conduits for offshore sediment transport under non-storm conditions. The maintenance of such rip circulation systems, driven by morphodynamic feedback, reduces beach recovery ability until the rip-neck and feeder channels are infilled.

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“…These processes and the subsequent changes in the wave height distribution have to be simulated in order to obtain the distribution just in front of the defence line. Generally, wave models such as SWAN (Wood et al 2000), Boussinesq models (Bayram & Larson, 2000) and Volume of Fluid (VOF) models (Wu et al 1994) are used for this purpose. The difficulty, however, consists in assessing the associated uncertainties which are required for the implementation of any PRA-based design of coastal flood defences.…”

Section: Uncertainties In Predicting Waves Over Shallow Foreshoresmentioning

confidence: 99%