The Safety Assessment of Cosmetic Perfumes by Using In Chemico and In Vitro Methods in Combination with GC-MS/MS Analysis

Abstract

Animal testing has been prohibited for the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients or finished products. Thus, alternative non-animal methods, followed by confirmatory clinical studies on human volunteers, should be used as the sole legally acceptable approach within the EU. The safety assessment of cosmetic products requires the involvement of multiple scientific disciplines, including analytical chemistry and biomedicine, as well as in chemico, in vitro and in silico toxicology. Recent data suggest that fragrance components may exert multiple adverse biological effects, e.g. cytotoxicity, skin sensitisation, (photo)genotoxicity, mutagenicity, reprotoxicity and endocrine disruption. Therefore, a pilot study was conducted with selected samples of fragrance-based products, such as deodorant, eau de toilette and eau de parfum, with the aim of integrating results from a number of alternative non-animal methods suitable for the detection of the following toxicological endpoints: cytotoxicity (with 3T3 Balb/c fibroblasts); skin sensitisation potential ( in chemico method, DPRA); skin sensitisation potential (LuSens in vitro method, based on human keratinocytes); genotoxicity potential ( in vitro Comet assay with 3T3 Balb/c cells); and endocrine disruption ( in vitro YES/YAS assay). The presence of twenty-four specific known allergens in the products was determined by using GC-MS/MS. The strategies for estimation of the NOAEL of a mixture of allergens, which were proposed by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Products in their ‘Opinion on Tea tree oil’ document and by the Norwegian Food Safety Authority in their 'Risk Profile of Tea tree oil' report, were used as models for the NOAEL estimation of the mixtures of allergens that were identified in the individual samples tested in this study.

Editorial

“…to inform a decision regarding product development or safety assessment). A combination of different assays and/or models is needed; this is precisely the approach that is promulgated by Dvoravoka et al 3 The authors report the results from a pilot study in which a battery of in chemico and in vitro tests were used to investigate ten cosmetic fragrance-based products, containing varying amounts of twenty-four known allergens. Results from assays to detect effects relating to cytotoxicity, skin sensitisation, genotoxicity and endocrine disruption were integrated, demonstrating the potential of this combined approach to inform a prediction regarding hazard.…”