The role of the reef-dune system in coastal protection in Puerto Morelos (Mexico)

Abstract

Abstract. Reefs and sand dunes are critical morphological features providing natural coastal protection. Reefs dissipate around 90% of the incident wave energy through wave breaking, whereas sand dunes provide the final natural barrier against coastal flooding. The storm impact on coastal areas with these features depends on the relative elevation of the extreme water levels with respect to the sand dune morphology. However, despite the importance of the barrier reefs and dunes in 15 coastal protection, poor management practices have degraded these ecosystems, increasing their vulnerability to coastal flooding. The present study aims to investigate the role of the reef-dune system in coastal protection under current climatic conditions at Puerto Morelos, located in the Mexican Caribbean Sea. Firstly, a nonlinear non-hydrostatic numerical model (SWASH) is validated with experimental data from a physical model of a fringing reef. The numerical model predicts both energy transformation and runup statistics as compared with experimental results for two different reef crest geometries 20 conducted in a physical model. Thus, the numerical model is further used to investigate the role of the reef-dune degradation in coastal vulnerability. Wave hindcast information, tidal level, and a measured beach profile of the reef-dune system in Puerto Morelos are employed to predict extreme runup and estimate the storm impact scale for different scenarios. The numerical results show that ecosystem degradation has important implications for coastal protection against storms with return periods of less than 10 years. This highlights the importance of conservation of the system as a mitigation measure to 25 decrease coastal vulnerability and infrastructure losses in coastal areas in the short to medium term.

Wave Transformation on a Fringing Reef System With Spur and Groove Structures

“…Among all the services that reef systems provide, protection from ocean waves has been one of the most highlighted in recent years (Beck et al., 2018; Ferrario et al., 2014; Franklin et al., 2017; Lugo‐Fernández et al., 1998; Mariño‐Tapia et al., 2014; Monismith et al., 2015; Ruiz de Alegría‐Arzaburu, et al., 2013). Lugo‐Fernandez et al.…”

Beyond the Beach: Multi-Parameter Interpretation of Shore Deterioration in a Caribbean Reef System

“…The level of protection varies depending on the morphology of the reef and its distance from the shore, ranging from 500 to 3000 m. The coral reef of the PNAPM is not continuous along the coast, as it is interrupted by channels that connect the reef lagoon and the offshore ocean [36]. Maximum protection is provided in sections where the back-reef is well developed and the crest is very shallow [20].…”

“…The simplest is probably the land use on the shore, including the identification of stretches with severe beach erosion, which can be obtained through visual inspection. Information concerning the deterioration/conservation condition, height, and area of the foredunes provides valuable insight into their ability to protect the coast from flooding [20][21][22]. Additional methods of assessing the condition of the sandy shore include analyzing sediments, beach profiles, and shoreline evolution.…”