The Possible Highest Gravity Waves in Shallow Water

“…4 1. H increases nearly proportional to depth, and the highest mean values are lower than in the first breaker zone (see last chapter) and even than the highest nonbreaking waves after Kishi (1959).…”

Section: Figmentioning

confidence: 86%

Shallow Water Wave Characteristics

Siefert¹

1972

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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Prototype data from 24 wave stations on and around the tidal flats south of the Elbe estuary enable us to elaborate special shallow water wave characteristics, concerning the variations and correlations of heights, periods, lengths and velocities. This paper deals with some interesting aspects from the engineer's point of view. It turns out that the steepness factor — or H L —^o- of breaking waves is much smaller than of nong- T^ breaking waves and that steepness is no suitable parameter to describe a natural wave spectrum in shallow waters. On the tidal flats the maximum wave heights only depend on the depth of water, not on the steepness. Moreover the possible wave height proves to become much higher than theoretically predicted, especially in depths of water less than 2 m.

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“…Theoretical work on stability criteria has been presented by Kishi (1959), and Penney and Price (1952), whereas Miche (1944), Danel (1952), Iwata and Kiyono (1985) by Goda (1972), demonstrating the transition from nonbreaking to post-breaking shapes of wave pressures in front of a vertical wall. The literature describing the impulse of shock pressures of breaking waves acting on a vertical wall belongs to the third group of classification, and is very rich.…”

Section: Existing Modelsmentioning

confidence: 97%

Instability of nonlinear standing waves in front of a vertical wall

Romańczyk¹

2007

Journal of Fluids and Structures

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The Possible Highest Gravity Waves in Shallow Water

Cited by 7 publications

References 0 publications

Estimation Op Wave Overtopping Quantity Over Sea-Walls

Estimation Op Wave Overtopping Quantity Over Sea-Walls

Shallow Water Wave Characteristics

Instability of nonlinear standing waves in front of a vertical wall

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